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Meet and vegetables
Evening Standard 09.04.08
Greener choices: sous chef Robert Watson at Mildred's in Soho
Food for all: Even meat-eaters can enjoy vegetarian staples like beansprouts
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First Charles Saatchi credited his dramatic weight loss to a new vegetarian diet. Then Sir Paul McCartney, mid-divorce case, posed for Peta, saying: “If anyone wants to save the planet, all they have to do is stop eating meat.” Camden council has agreed, turning its staff catering virtually meat-free in a bid to lower the borough's carbon footprint.
So if vegetarianism is good for your health and the planet, what's not to like? London's limited range of eating options, for one thing. But eating well either as a veggie, or in the company of one, doesn't have to take place in a vegetarian restaurant.
Here are eight good options — some vegetarian where carnivores wouldn't miss meat, and some mainstream restaurants that cater well for veggies. And not a nut cutlet in sight...
MORGAN M
489 Liverpool Road, N7 (020 7609 3560)
Garden menu, six courses for £38
Morgan Meunier is unusual among French chefs in that he has a genuine flair with vegetarian dishes — “cannelloni of button mushrooms and tarragon, broad beans and diced cucumber, thyme beurre” — and a mouthwatering “garden menu”. Slick service and a serious wine list means vegetarians can eat very well here.
SAGAR
157 King Street, W6 (020 8741 8563)
About £15pp ex-drinks
Eighty per cent of India's population are vegetarian, so choosing an Indian restaurant is a way to guarantee a good vegetarian meal. Sagar is a friendly, neighbourhood establishment with a long and inventive vegetarian menu. Dishes are well spiced and offer imaginative combinations of textures, such as the puffed bhatura (fried yeasted bread) with gingery chickpea curry. A genuine bargain.
MILDRED'S
45 Lexington Street, W1 (020 7494 1634)
About £12pp ex-drinks
Fashionable media types pack this Soho haunt at lunchtime. It strikes a good balance between healthy and hearty, with tasty salads, virtuous stir-fries and huge cheeseburgers. The burrito and the sweet-potato fries are particularly moreish.
THE SQUARE
6 Bruton Street, W1 (020 7495 7100)
Seven-course vegetarian tasting menu, £90pp
There aren't many Michelin-starred experiences worth paying for when you're a veggie. But Philip Howard's two-star restaurant is a slick and hospitable place — the tasting menu can be varied to suit vegetarians, those who eat fish or vegans. Vegetarians will get dishes that are creative and delicious, such as the sautée of Parmesan gnocchi with new season morels.
AL WAHA
73 Westbourne Grove, W2 (020 7229 0806)
About £20pp ex-drinks
Lebanese menus are happy hunting grounds for vegetarians packed as they are with fragrant salads, dips, chickpea fritters and delightful fried-cheese pastries. Al Waha is one of the best and you could dine very well by simply asking the waiters to bring you a large, vegetarian selection of mezze complete with fabulous hot breads.
ROUSSILLON
16 St Barnabas Street, SW1 (020 7730 5550)
Seven-course vegetarian tasting menu, £60pp
Alexis Gautier is a very able French chef who has fallen head over heels in love with British produce. His vegetarian menus are sophisticated, with good combinations of taste and texture. The English asparagus velouté and spring-vegetable risotto served with black truffle certainly fit the bill.
WOODLANDS
102 Heath Street, NW3 (020 7794 3080; www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk for other branches)
About £15pp ex-drinks
This easy-going chain restaurant serves South Indian vegetarian food — tantalising combinations of lightly spiced lentils, rice, nuts and freshly cooked veg. There are several Woodlands branches in India and they set the authentic tone of the London menus. The thalis and dosas — rice and lentil pancakes filled with chutneys and veg — are good options.
RASOI VINEET BHATIA
10 Lincoln Street, SW3 (020 7225 1881)
Seven-course vegetarian gourmand menu, £52pp
Michelin-spangled chef Vineet Bhatia has a deft hand with spices and fixed ideas about presentation. If you want to push the boat out and have an upmarket Indian, veggie dinner Rasoi is a good choice. The paneer and pickle masala is a speciality and customers are fanatical about the creamy black lentils.
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