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Best American restaurants in London
Evening Standard 05.11.08
Patty perfect: visit London-based diners for mouth-watering burgers and sandwiches
Tasty: try the High Road Brasserie for a stack of buttermilk pancakes
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In the 1970s, American restaurants invaded Britain and swept all before them — McDonald's, the Colonel and their fast-food friends routed our indigenous cafés and restaurants. But victory on the chain-restaurant front came at a price — ever since they've been confronted by a burger store on every high street, and British diners have been unable to take American food seriously. Which is a little short-sighted, as fast-forward to the new Millennium and there is some very genuine and very decent American cooking to be had. Whether you're celebrating or indulging in comfort food post the US election, here are some
suggestions as to where to get what.
Bodean's for ribs
Known for excellent barbecue, Bodean's turns out some splendid ribs — the baby back ribs are tender, smoky and porky with a good rich sauce (you'll get 10 or 11 ribs to a “slab”). But it's also worth considering the beef back ribs which are very large and very delicious — rich chewy meat with a good grain to it. The side orders — coleslaw, beans and fries — are well done. Beware of those Bloody Marys.
Bodean's, 10 Poland Street, W1 (020 7287 7575) and branches www.bodeansbbq.com. Open Mon-Fri noon-3pm & 6-11pm; Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. £20pp excluding drinks.
The High Road Brasserie for a stack of buttermilk pancakes
America's most telling contribution to the art of breakfasting may well by the “stack of pancakes” — an indulgent pile of hot pancakes dressed with maple syrup. On the face of it this combination should be too sweet and too stodgy but in practice it is delicious and becomes truly great when you add a little crisp bacon. The High Road Brasserie in Chiswick makes no claim to be
American but it does offer a magnificent stack of buttermilk pancakes.
High Road Brasserie, 162 Chiswick High Road, W14 (020 8742 1717). Mon-Fri breakfast 7am-noon; lunch & dinner noon-11pm; Sat & Sun breakfast 8am-noon; brunch & dinner noon-11pm (midnight on Sat). Breakfast £12pp ex-drinks.
Joe Allen for salad
Some of the world's finest salads were invented in the USA — Cobb, Waldorf, Caesar. At comfortable old-timer Joe Allen they serve excellent salads in large and imposing bowls. Also good for reliable American staples such as chilli con carne or hash.
Joe Allen, 13 Exeter Street, WC2 (020 7836 0651). Mon-Fri 8-11.30 am (breakfast) & noon-9.45pm; Sat 11.30am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-11.30pm. £25pp ex-drinks.
The Diner for burgersThere is now a small chain of Diners and they all follow the same pattern: the décor revolves around a classic American diner as does the menu. As well as very good burgers you can get a Philly cheese steak sandwich or a bacon chilli cheese dog. Hold out for a double-decker burger.
The Diner, 18 Ganton Street, W1 (020 7287 8962) and branches (www.thedinersoho.com). Mon-Sat 10.30-12.30am; Sun 10am-midnight. £14pp ex-drinks.
The Eagle Bar Diner for milkshakes
Also making the most of diner culture, the Eagle Bar Diner grafts an emphasis on cocktails on to its menu. As well as moody burgers (it's hard to see merit in an ostrich or crocodile burger), there are some novel and alcoholic milkshakes — Mon Cherie (Remy Martin and Cherry Marnier with a cherry) or the $10 milkshake made with Woodford Reserve and vanilla ice cream.
Eagle Bar Diner, 3-5 Rathbone Place, W1 (020 7637 1418). Mon-Wed noon-11pm; Thurs & Fri noon-1am; Sat 10am-1am; Sun 11am-6pm. £15pp ex-drinks.
Maze Grill for American striploin
Maze Grill is a homage to the classic New York steak house and when it was set up, the kitchen planner took the trouble to import a large and expensive “Broiler” from America. This device means that the steaks can be cooked American-style — well done outside but still very rare within. As well as the excellent striploin (prime USDA corn-fed) there is aged English grass-fed beef and the prohibitively expensive “Waygu”.
Maze Grill, 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1 (020 7495 2211). Mon-Sat noon-3pm &
6-11pm. £45pp ex-drinks.
Panzer's for shopping
As any expat American will tell you, there is no substitute for those genuine US brands. At Panzer's in St John's Wood they import the iconic Graham crackers, plus Saltines and Triskets. There, homesick home-bakers will find Gold Medal flour, pie-crust shells and Nestlé
chocolate chips. And at many an election party yesterday, Panzer's will doubtless have supplied the authentic Cheddar Goldfish to serve with the drinks!
Panzer's, 13 Circus Road, NW8 (020 7722 8596.) Mon-Fri 8am-7pm; Sat 8am-6pm; Sun 8am-2pm.
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Reader views (4)
Eagle Bar Diner is AWESOME!!!
- Jenny, London
Bodeans is highly overrated. I have only been on big nights (sundays, final four, super bowl, etc), so maybe its better on non USA sporting event days when everything tastes a day old. Sam Adams is always a redeeming quality though.
- Eric, London, UK
See you there Saturday Mary, you will know me I will wear an Obama mask 8pm
- Jaberwokie3, switzerland
How can you not have included Harlem on Westbourne Grove? It is one of the only genuine American restaurants in London. American food, American drinks and OWNED by and American, Arthur Baker. Come on!
- Mary Turner, London, UK
