Best Afro-Caribbean food in London

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A rum do: Mr Jerk is one place to go to see how mixologists use rum properly

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One thing that really appeals to the British palate is a dash of spice. Thousands of high street Indian restaurants owe their success to our liking for cheap, unpretentious and spicy food — and there's no reason why Afro-Caribbean food shouldn't do just as well.

There are even the first signs that it may well turn into “the next big thing”; for the first time the BBC Good Food Show (Olympia, 14-16 November) has a whole pavilion dedicated to African and Caribbean cooking and ingredients, where you can not only sample the classic dishes and the famous island cocktails but also trace the influences these cuisines have had on cookery in Europe.

Top chefs like Patricia Onyearu — she runs Lubanna in Bethnal Green, a restaurant noted for its fusion of Caribbean and Nigerian cuisines — will be strutting their stuff. After the show has whetted your appetite for African-Caribbean food and drink, here some suggestions that are worth looking into for another taste.

Caribbean Scene, Excel Marina, 17 Western Gateway, Royal Victoria Dock, E16 (020 7511 2023). Open Mon 6-11pm; Tues-Thurs noon-11pm; Fri & Sat noon-midnight; Sun noon-11pm. £28pp ex-drinks.
A large and glossy West Indian restaurant with a view across the water, and serving sophisticated dishes. The bar is busy despite the rather over-the-top décor.

D'Den, 47 Cricklewood Broadway, NW2 (020 8830 5000). Open Mon-Sat 11am-5am; Sun noon-4am. £20pp ex-drinks.
A friendly, home-style Nigerian restaurant, good for dishes such as pepper soup, spicy grilled meats and whole grilled fish. The food is certainly hot enough for even hardened chilli-heads.

Glistening Waters, 5 Ferry Lane, Ferry Quays, High Street, Brentford (020 8758 1616). Open Tues-Thurs 6-11.30pm; Sat 3pm-midnight; Sun 1-10.30pm. £25pp ex-drinks.
A small and elegant Caribbean restaurant — all the classic dishes but with modernist variations, slick presentation and friendly service.

Mango Room, 10-12 Kentish Town Road, NW1 (020 7482 5065). Open noon-11pm daily. £20pp ex-drinks.
Relaxed place offering a modern interpretation of some classic Caribbean dishes — if you like your food chilli-hot it is best to ask for it to be pepped up.

JERK CHICKEN
Jerk chicken is a signature dish of Afro-Caribbean cuisine, using “jerk seasoning” — a marinade usually based on allspice berries, lime juice and a serious belt of chilli. To compare different recipes pay a visit to Wardour Street where Mr Jerk and Jerk City – run by former partners — are next to each other, or see if Levi Roots's sauces deserve their reputation at Papine Jerk.
Jerk City, 189 Wardour Street, W1
(020 7287 2878).
Mr Jerk, 187 Wardour Street, W1
(020 7437 7770).
Papine Jerk, 8 Lavender Road, SW11 (020 7924 2288).

IS RUM THE NEW WHISKY?
In the competitive world of the mixologist, rare and fine rums are elbowing their way into the spotlight — as well as white, golden, and traditional brown rums there are overproof rums and rare, aged rums. For decent rum cocktails and some guidance through the forest of options, try Mr Jerk (see far left), Cotton's in Exmouth Market for a Caribbean slant on things or Floridita on Dean Street for a more Cuban perspective. To perk up your home drinks cupboard, visit Gerry's Wine & Spirits on Old Compton Street — where they stock more than 200 different rums, including highly prized 30-year-olds that can cost as much as £300 a bottle!
Cotton's 70 Exmouth Market, EC1
(020 7833 3332).
Floridita London, 100 Wardour Street, W1 (020 7314 4000).
Gerry's Wines & Spirits, 74 Old Compton Street, W1 (020 7734 2053).

 

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