Five to try: Never knowingly off duty

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Don't expect a smile: Phoenix Place

Notable wines: Harwood Arms

Look here too

• Richard Corrigan review
• Five to try: Cheap Hedonism

THE HARWOOD ARMS
27 Walham Grove SW6
(020 7386 1847) £40
The news that Brett Graham, head chef of The Ledbury, is involved at the Harwood Arms, with his protégé Steve Williams working as chef, had me hurrying over to lunch. The emphasis is on seasonal food, much of it caught, hunted or foraged in the Berkshire countryside surrounding the Pot Kiln gastropub owned by Mike Robinson, another partner. Warm salad of wild wood pigeon followed by T-bone of Henley Fallow deer was gratifying vindication of the approach. Notable wines.

TEACHI
29-31 Parkway NW1
(020 7485 9933) £25
Runner-up in the Cheap Eats category of Time Out Awards 2008 and a recent endorsement on Matthew Lewin's website (www.matthews-table.com) had me booking at this Camden Town yearling. In terms of seductive surroundings, friendly staff and creativity on the Chinese/Malaysian menu, you do get a big bang for your buck but too many items lacking finesse finally cast an oily pall. Definitely try Szechuan green beans, the char-grilled skewers, green tea noodle salad, crispy duck roll.

ORSO
27 Wellington Street WC2
(020 7240 5269) £32 (brunch)
Needing feeding before a Sunday afternoon performance at the Royal Opera House, I remembered that the long-running Orso, now in its 23rd arugula-garnished year, offers weekend brunch. Two/three courses at £18.50/£20.50 include a Bloody Mary, bellini or glass of prosecco. Cherry tomato, wild arugula and shaved parmesan salad and then slow-roasted pork with crunchy crackling and excellent leaf spinach — in place of unwanted sage potatoes — did the trick. Service was charm itself.

PHOENIX PALACE
5 Glentworth Street NW1
(020 7486 3515) £22 (lunch)
Many dim sum offered for less than £2.50 in a colourful, comfortable environment fills this Chinese restaurant at lunchtime with a disparate crowd ranging from businessmen eating alone with a book to gaggles of ladies of a certain age who know a bargain when they eat one. The
specials menus deserve study both for dim sum and à la carte. Waiting staff determinedly resist the opportunity
to smile.

LANTANA CAFE
13 Charlotte Place W1
(020 7637 3347) £23
Round where I live, we are thrilled with the arrival of Blackfoot Butchers (and deli/traiteur), an offshoot of Salt Yard and Dehesa restaurants, at 14 Charlotte Place and the Australian-run Lantana Café next door. Coffee “made by obsessives” easily surpasses that sold by neighbouring chains. Breakfast has a list of dishes to inspire your day and lunch offers fine, healthy, inventive salads and irresistible home baking. Waitresses serve sunny-side up. Now all we need is a fishmonger.

Prices estimate a meal with wine for one

 

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