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Five to try: A Room of One's Own
04.02.09
Perfect place to gather: Bam-Bou
Integrity of cooking: Latium
Look here too
BAM-BOU
1 Percy Street, W1 (020 7323 9130) £45
In her slim volume on the subject Virginia Woolf said, “a woman must have money and a room of her own if she wants to write fiction”. If you want to spin your own fictions among friends, a quiet room of your own in a restaurant is the best place to do it. Money helps, too. The Indochine décor and South-East Asian food in one of the warren of rooms here is ideal for a chilli-hot gathering. The Chef's Room, with its own fireplace, seats up to nine.
JOANNA'S
56 Westow Hill, SE19 (020 8670 4052) £43
In Crystal Palace those in the know about Joanna's — and after over 30 years trading that is a sizeable group — ask for table 99 when they want a secluded space for up to five. The global brasserie menu may be stronger in some areas than others but when set against all-day dining, a choice of roasts with the correct accompaniments served on Sundays from noon to 6pm and no room charge for eating intimately, that's just the way of the world.
THE FOX
28 Paul Street, EC2 (020 7729 5708) £37
By their nature gastropubs are likely sources of private rooms due to what was once the publican's accommodation upstairs. At this Shoreditch fixture, which has resisted a pretentious vibe that snakes around some other local establishments, there is a charming small room that seats up to 10. Typical dishes include grilled squid with split pea purée, roasted pigeon with sage gnocchi and red chard, or sticky date pudding with crème fraîche.
LATIUM
21 Berners Street, W1 (020 7323 9123) £44
Maurizio Morelli's restaurant opposite The Sanderson receives well-deserved praise for the integrity of the cooking, service led by Umberto Tosi and the effort put in to discovering interesting small wine producers. A recent refurbishment has created a chef's table for six, which would suit a group needing the occasional distraction. From the ravioli menu, the quartet of fish parcels sprinkled with bottarga is notable. Bollito misto is offered, something you can't say about many places.
THE WELLS
30 Well Walk, NW3 (020 7794 3785) £42
My sister Beth Coventry owns this handsome Hampstead pub, so I am no stranger to its charms. The three dining rooms upstairs can be hired for private meals, the smallest the Yellow Room being best for a bunch of friends. It will hold 12 but can be booked for half that number. Greg Smith's team send out food that achieves the delicate balance between comfort and ambition. Service is notably amiable. Well, she would say that wouldn't she? Yes, but it's true.
Prices estimate a meal with wine for one.
