The best cold weather cuisine in London

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Winter warmer: Victoria is all set to demolish Swiss raclette in Whole Foods wine bar. At a pinch, a small portion can stretch to two

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In these sub-zero temperatures, we need some warming and filling food to power us through. All meagre meals should be struck from the menu and replaced with lashings of cream and heaps of potatoes. In the cold, northern and eastern European food really comes into its own, properly catering for winter appetites with Alpine feasts and dollops of goulash and borscht. London has a mine of restaurants serving all the traditional fare, if you know where to look for them. We round up a dozen of the heartiest winter staples — and tell you where to find them.

Raclette at Whole Foods
Hot Swiss raclette cheese is being served at the organic supermarket's wine bar. A small portion will stuff one stomach or stretch to two.
Try: raclette cheese melted over boiled new potatoes, caramelised onions and cornichons (£4.88/£8.79).
Where: 63-97 Kensington High
Street, W8, 020 7368 4500,
www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Veal Roast at Le Cafe Anglais
Rowley Leigh's latest venture serves proper, “proudly English”, yet French-styled roasts including veal, duck and a whole garlic and rosemary roast chicken.
Try: rognone of veal with cep (£22.50) with a side of gratin dauphinois (£4). “Veal is one of the best and simplest things to roast at the moment,” says chef Leigh.
Where: 8 Porchester Gardens, W2, 020 7221 1415, www.lecafeanglais.co.uk

Borscht and dumplings at Trojka
The Trojka menu offers a host of traditional Russian and Eastern European dishes — best washed down with a measure of vodka.
Try: Ukrainian borscht and smetana (soured cream) for £2.95 followed by pelmeni dumplings filled with mushrooms and cabbage or meat (£7.95).
Where: 101 Regent's Park Road, NW1, 020 7483 3765, www.trojka.co.uk

Fondue at St Moritz
“Winter is fondue time,” says Arman Loetscher, owner of the Soho institution St Moritz, where his classic molten cheese dish is drawing people in from the snowy streets.
Try: Loetscher's favourite, the fondue moitié-moitié — melted gruyère and vacherin cheese with new potatoes and bread (£14.90 per person, minimum of two people).
Where: 161 Wardour Street, W1,
020 7734 3324, www.stmoritz-restaurant.co.uk

Bikesmad (Danish all day breakfast) at Nordic Bar
Round the corner from Goodge Street you will find two menus and a smorgasbord stuffed with Danish cheeses, Nordic hot dogs and fried potatoes.
Try: bikesmad — a hash of sautéed potatoes with beef strips and onions, topped with a fried egg and served with pickles and beetroot (£5.95).
Where: 25 Newman Street, W1, 020 7631 3174, www.nordicbar.com

Aeblekage Apple pudding at Madsen
At Madsen, all traditional Scandinavian dishes come labelled with a heart. “Seeing those filling dishes from back home hopefully gives Scandinavians who dine with us a warm feel,” says owner Charlotte Kruse Madsen.
Try: aeblekage — traditional stewed apples in layers with amaretti and whipped cream (£4.95).
Where: 20 Old Brompton Road,
SW7, 020 7225 2772,
www.madsenrestaurant.com

Swedish Meatballs at Scandinavian Kitchen“We sell four times as many meatballs in the winter,” says Jonas Aurell, co-owner of the restaurant. “They remind people of their mother's home cooking.”
Try: Swedish meatball platter served with potato salad and beetroot and apple salad (£5.95 per portion).
Where: 61 Great Titchfield
Street, W1, 020 7580 7161,
www.scandikitchen.co.uk

Golonka at Wodka
This is Wodka's signature dish. It's popular with men because of the decent portion size, and the cabbage always goes down well as a winter warmer.
Try: ribsticking Polish speciality golonka — roast pork shank with sauerkraut and new potatoes, marinated in honey and white wine (£15.50 per person).
Where: 12 St Alban's Grove, W8, 020 7937 6513, www.wodka.co.uk

Bavette at Chez Kristoff
“People opt for this because the meat is tender and it's a good alternative to coq au vin, says Francesco Semplici, manager at French restaurant Chez Kristoff. “It's a great winter filler.”
Try: bavette — sizzling steak with sautéed onion in red wine with green beans (£13.50 per person).
Where: 111 Hammersmith
Grove, W6, 020 8741 1177,
www.chezkristoff.co.uk

Scotch broth at Albannach
“This is good warming stuff — we extended the Robbie Burns menu as this was so popular,” says Neil Preston, head of marketing at Scottish restaurant Albannach.
Try: Scotch broth with braised Buccleugh lamb neck — served with traditional porridge oats, turnips and herb dumplings (£28 for three courses including three drams of Glenlivet whisky).
Where: 66 Trafalgar Square, WC2, 020 7930 0066, www.albannach.co.uk

Goulash at Baltic
“This paprika-spiced stew is one of our classic winter dishes,” says Peter Mlot, manager at Eastern European restaurant Baltic.
Try: beef goulash served with smoked sausage, pickles and peppers, with a dollop of sour cream (£14.50 per person).
Where: 74 Blackfriars Road, SE1,
020 7928 1111,
www.balticrestaurant.co.uk

Cassoulet at Papillon
“With the weather being so harsh, a filling dish like a cassoulet is a comfort blanket against the cold,” says head chef David Duverger.
Try: hearty duck confit cassoulet — a typically French casserole served with bacon and butter beans (£11.50 per person, available from next Wednesday).
Where: 96 Draycott Avenue, SW3,
020 7225 2555,
www.papillonchelsea.co.uk

 

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