A taste of Australia on your doorstep? Try one of these restaurants, recommended by Fay Maschler.

• NAHM, Halkin Hotel, 5 Halkin Street, SW1 (020 7333 1234) £60. David Thompson, who came from Darley Street Thai and Sailors Thai in Sydney, has revealed aristocratic, extraordinary Thai dishes to Londoners.

• SMITHS OF SMITHFIELD, 66-67 Charterhouse Street, EC1 (020 7251 7997) £50. John Torode, who opened Mezzo then Bluebird, demonstrates a dedication to sourcing prime produce that is the hallmark of top Australian restaurants.

• SCOTT'S, 20 Mount Street, W1 (020 7629 5248) £55. Michael MacEneary, chef at this stoically English fish emporium, worked at Sydney's Rockpool, where species are fished according to " stressminimising catch methodology". The cover charge is said to help save stocks.

• OSIA, 11 Haymarket, SW1 (020 7976 1313) £53. Scott Webster fuses indigenous Australian produce at this cool space in the West End.

• THE EASTON, 22 Easton Street, WC1 (020 7278 7608) £23. Zim Sutton and Andrew Veevers have embraced a gastropub formula cheekily similar to the prototype, The Eagle.

• CICADA, 132-136 St John Street, EC1 (020 7608 1550) £35. Will Ricker borrows names well: Cicada was a Sydney institution run until recently by Peter Doyle. The Thai dishes are Oz-inspired.

• EAST@WEST, 15 West Street, WC2 (020 7010 8600) £50. Will we be enchanted by Christine Manfield's sorcery and sauciness?

Note: all prices for a meal with wine for one.