London,

Mayfair plush meets Americana

By Charles Campion, London Restaurant Guide 

It's always worth travelling for a good hamburger, and the one at Automat is on the cusp of greatness.

Setting aside delightful images of rich, little old Mayfair ladies pitching up with their laundry for a service wash, Automat doesn't seem like a good name for this combination of chic, slick and Yank that opened in 2005.

The dining area is divided into three parts - to the rear is a bar and seating with a greenhousey feel, in the middle are solid and trad booths, and to the front, smaller, less comfortable tables and chairs crowd a sort of 'shop-window' area.

The menu also splits into appetisers, sandwiches, entrées and sides.

The starters are American dishes seen through European eyes, so a clam chowder is marginally less chunky (although it does come with Saltine crackers).

There's chicken liver and foie gras mousse; an iceberg wedge with 'house ranch dressing'.

A grilled portabello mushroom salad is very delicious - sliced marinated mushroom, small endive leaves, beetroot and mozzarella, a winning combo.

Sandwiches include the Automat burger - good meat, check; cooked as requested, check; good bun, check; good size, check.

Also on offer the soft shell 'po boy'.

The entrées include macaroni and cheese; sea bass baked in parchment with clams; a crispy fried duck leg; and hanger steak.

The hanger steak (a.k.a. onglet or skirt steak) comes to table accurately cooked and is very tender and full of flavour - the French fries are very sound.

Puds range from apple pie, to a New York cheesecake and Mississippi mud pie with soured cream.

The prices on the wine list reflect the Mayfair location, but thankfully the service is informal and cheerful.

Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.

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