Morgan Meunier is a short, passionate Frenchman.

He is also a chef and a very good one.

Morgan M is very much his baby: he painted the pictures displayed on the walls, and the large and accomplished front-of-house team have all worked with him before.

The restaurant is in a converted Watney's pub and it is now dark green outside with mint green within.

On the wall is a bookshelf displaying a complete set of Michelin guides.

Foodies are already making this resto a place of pilgrimage, and in the main they are right to do so.

The style of the place is very French, very haute cuisine; dishes are complex and elegant on the plate, but the seasoning is spot on and the dishes work well.

Pricing is straightforward: at dinner you opt for the three courses, or get stuck into the six-course dégustation.

Starters may include a ravioli of snails in Chablis with poached garlic, or a carpaccio of gently smoked scallops with asparagus coulis and fromage blanc sorbet - very delicate, very fresh flavours.

Onwards to a pavé of turbot topped with a crayfish raviolo, cream of celeriac, champagne velouté; grilled Anjou squab pigeon; or roast fillet of veal with sweetbreads, kidney and a splendidly rich cream and morels sauce.

Puds are featured - there's a dark chocolate moelleux (you get to specify dark or plain chocolate) and a raspberry soufflé.

The wine list scampers up to some very fine wines indeed, but there are enough bottles on the lower slopes to slake the thirst of mere mortals.