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Restaurants
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London,
Charles Campion's rating
Reader rating
Description: Morgan Meunier's "inspired" Gallic venture offers "ravishing" cuisine at "unbeatable" prices; his north-Islington premises are "miles from anywhere", but have recently (too late to be reflected in the survey) been given a "warmer look".
Food: 
Service: 
Ambience:
Phone: 020 7609 3560
Website: http://www.morganm.com
Open: Open for dinner from 19:00 Tuesday to Saturday. Open for lunch from 12:00 Wednesday to Friday and on Sunday.
Dress code: Smart Casual
Good for: Good food, Ambience.
Payment options: All major cards except Amex
Morgan Meunier is a short, passionate Frenchman.
He is also a chef and a very good one.
Morgan M is very much his baby: he painted the pictures displayed on the walls, and the large and accomplished front-of-house team have all worked with him before.
The restaurant is in a converted Watney's pub and it is now dark green outside with mint green within.
On the wall is a bookshelf displaying a complete set of Michelin guides.
Foodies are already making this resto a place of pilgrimage, and in the main they are right to do so.
The style of the place is very French, very haute cuisine; dishes are complex and elegant on the plate, but the seasoning is spot on and the dishes work well.
Pricing is straightforward: at dinner you opt for the three courses, or get stuck into the six-course dégustation.
Starters may include a ravioli of snails in Chablis with poached garlic, or a carpaccio of gently smoked scallops with asparagus coulis and fromage blanc sorbet - very delicate, very fresh flavours.
Onwards to a pavé of turbot topped with a crayfish raviolo, cream of celeriac, champagne velouté; grilled Anjou squab pigeon; or roast fillet of veal with sweetbreads, kidney and a splendidly rich cream and morels sauce.
Puds are featured - there's a dark chocolate moelleux (you get to specify dark or plain chocolate) and a raspberry soufflé.
The wine list scampers up to some very fine wines indeed, but there are enough bottles on the lower slopes to slake the thirst of mere mortals.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
