The prime mover here is a Californian chef called Christina Anghelescu and her menus show an agreeable reliance on seasonal produce while displaying the same dogged determination to use only the best-quality ingredients that we associate with Alice Waters and the other West Coast stars.

This even extends to running a 'pot luck' tasting menu on Saturdays that is based around whatever was good at Borough Market that morning.

The main menu changes every six weeks or so.

The dining room looks like a lick-of-paint-makeover of a dodgy saloon bar - which is just what it is.

Service is slick, in a Gallic sort of way.

The food is good.

Dishes are pleasantly light, and presentation just about manages to stay elegant without tipping over the edge into elaborate.

In the winter starters may include oxtail ragout ravioli served with celeriac cream and sage-flavoured port reduction - good clear-cut flavours; or Devon crab served in the shell with creamy spinach, orange caviars and cresses; or a forest mushroom savoury pudding, watercress soup and salad of watercress and Parmigiano.

Mains are considered combinations - sea bass en papillote, truffled fennel beurre blanc, caramelised chicory; a French rabbit daube, toasted brioche, roast winter vegetables and sherry glaze; or slow-roast poussin, warm salad of Puy lentils, lardons and figs and a creamy tarragon white wine sauce.

Puds are good - there's a bitter chocolate shortbread truffle tart, and the 'satsuma curd sandwich' - a somewhat tongue-in-cheek description, but a pleasant surprise.

As befits the City location, there's a grown-up wine list with some good stickies.