It's a fair old leap from Belgian mussels to American barbecue, but Bodean's seems to have struck a chord and is a friendly, busy place.

This unashamedly American eatery is the brainchild of one of the men who set up Belgo (see p. 20).

Upstairs is a kind of diner/deli/sandwich shop.

Downstairs is a restaurant.

Only somewhere paying serious homage to Americana would have a strident tartan carpet, wall lights made to look like antelope horns and a red-painted ceiling.

Even the service is American gushy and there is an authentic 'commercial' ring to the place, something that you will either love or hate.

The starters are not very impressive - smoke-fired chicken wings come either hot or mild and they are the best of the bunch, or perhaps the clam chowder.

Cut to the chase and get amongst the real smoky barbecued stuff.

Baby back ribs (served by the whole or half 'slab') are considered by ribologists to be too tender and a bit of a cop-out.

The pork spareribs (again sold by the whole slab, eleven or twelve ribs; or the half, five or six ribs) are terrific.

Mains come with average coleslaw and pretty good beans.

Fries are good and crisp.

The star dish is the beef back ribs - a Fred Flintstone dish with large flat bones, this is dry and chewy.

Very good. There are other delicacies such as Boston butt, a pulled pork sandwich.

But only the ribs will stick to your ribs.

Puds tread the ice-cream and pie route, while to drink there is a flotilla of different Bloody Marys, wine or beer.

Happily, this place is very child-friendly and there is usually some sort of enticing deal on offer.