Bibendum Oyster Bar is one of the nicest places to eat shellfish in London.

The 1911 building, a glorious tiled affair that was a former garage for the French tyre people, is Conranised throughout, but the oyster bar is in what looks like the old ground-floor workshop, and they've done precious little to it.

On the forecourt stand two camionettes: one a shellfish stall, selling lobsters, oysters and crabs to the smart set; the other a flower stall, with lilies, ginger flowers and roses rather than carnations.

Upstairs is Bibendum proper - a very grown-up restaurant.

The menu is a shellfish lover's heaven.

Here you'll find three different types of rock oyster - you can choose your favourite or order a selection to find out the difference.

The crab mayonnaise comes in the shell, giving you the enormous fun of pulling it apart and digging through the claws.

Or you can have it done for you in a crab salad - probably just as good, but not nearly so satisfying.

If you're really hungry, there's a particularly fine plateau de fruits de mer (for minimum two people), which has everything: crab, clams, langoustines, oysters, prawns and shrimps, as well as winkles and whelks.

There is plenty of choice for those allergic to claw-crushers, simple combinations such as Szechuan chicken salad, or grilled tuna with marinated tomatoes.

Desserts are simple and delicious - petit pot au chocolat; cheese; and the inevitable crème brélée.