It comes as a bit of a shock to find a rather good, large, bright, busy Chinese restaurant marooned this far north by the stream of traffic intent on dodging the Congestion Charge as they crawl past Tussaud's.

Over the years the menu has become more and more interesting here.

Thankfully the chefs seem to know what they are doing, so this has become a place to try out something new.

Starters include all the old favourites, such as chicken wrapped in lettuce leaf, but try the jellyfish with sesame seed; the soft-shell crab with chilli and garlic; the pork trotters with vinaigrette; or chilli potsticker dumplings.

The menu is a long one and it is worth a careful read as there are some interesting discoveries to be made, and a good many dishes that push the envelope.

Whenever you visit an ambitious Chinese restaurant it is always worth trying one dish that you have never had before.

Salt-baked chicken is a wonderful savoury roast chicken with juicy meat and crisp skin.

There's steamed turbot with Tientsin cabbage and garlic.

The fried minced pork patties with salted fish are very classy, the salt fish seasoning the pork mix successfully.

There's baked crab and salty yolk served with steamed buns; eel with pickled mustard green; pork and stuffed beancurd cooked in a clay pot; venison with yellow chives and celery.

To find any Chinese restaurant in this out-of-the-way location is a puzzle - to find such a good one is positively inscrutable.