London,

City stuff for City people

By Charles Campion, London Restaurant Guide 

The Brasserie at 1 Lombard Street was formerly a banking hall, so many of the suited and booted clientele will feel at home here.

It's an imposing room (doubtless it was designed to be so) and the circular bar sits under a suitably impressive glass dome.

The brasserie menu is a model of its kind, long but straightforward with a range of dishes that is up to any meal occasion.

It delivers on pretty much every front, serving satisfying dishes made with good fresh ingredients, both stylish and unfussy at the same time.

The bar, meanwhile, is like any chic City watering hole - loud, brisk and crowded, with simultaneous conversations in every European language.

There is a smaller, 40-seater room at the rear, set aside for fine dining at fancy prices.

The brasserie menu changes every couple of months to satisfy the band of regulars, and there are daily specials in addition.

The starters can be ambitious, such as seasonal game terrine, or simple, like Scotch broth, while further down the menu there will be some even more comfortable options such as soft-boiled, free-range egg served with smoked haddock and spinach gratin.

There's enough listed under shellfish and crustacea to fuel even the wildest celebrations, including griddled scallops with black pudding leeks and brown butter, and casserole of mussels and clams.

The Classics section has coq au vin à la Bourguignon; the Meat section lists steak, sausages, and liver.

Puds triumph - there's an indulgent warm chocolate fondant - and there's something on the wine list to suit most tastes.

Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.

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