During the 1970s Silvano Sacchi was at the helm of two of London's more fashionable eateries, the Barracuda (a smart Italian fish restaurant in Baker Street) and San Martino (an Italian tratt in St Martin's Lane).

Having sold out to a plc, Sacchi retired to Italy with his money and memories.

Then a few years ago he dived back into the maelstrom of the London restaurant scene and opened Sosta - it seems to have been busy from day one.

The antipasti include insalata tricolore - a mozzarella, avocado and tomato salad; carpaccio di spada - fresh swordfish; or tomato bruschetta.

Onwards to 'primi', where you'll find pasta e fagioli alla Veneto, a thick pasta and borlotti bean soup; and pasta dishes such as gnocchi all'aragosta - in lobster sauce; papardelle al ragu; and tagliolini alla rusticana.

Pasta dishes incur a small supplement when taken as a main course.

'Secondi' offers five fish and five meat dishes.

Orata alla plancia is grilled sea bream.

Then there's piccata di vitello al tartufo nero - escalopes of veal with black truffle, or tagliata di Angus - fillet steak.

Puds are sound: semi freddo; panna cotta; tiramisł.

The wine list has some trad Italian bottles that appeal greatly.

At Sosta the service is slick and the tables are close together.

The huge pepper mill of the 1970s may have been replaced by a natty modernist Parmesan grater, but everyone is attentive in what now seems like an old-fashioned way.