For many years this resto was known as the Organic Café and then it changed hands and was renamed Hugo's.

But it would take a very perceptive person to pinpoint any differences other than the name.

The kitchen ticks all the right boxes: organic, seasonal, local produce, non-endangered fish, traditional methods, eco-friendly practices.

Breakfast and brunch are given their own place in the scheme of things.

Overall this place qualifies as a genuine neighbourhood gem in a quiet, semi-private road with a light and airy dining room decorated with twisted fig branches and reclaimed chicken-wire light fittings.

The menu changes sporadically and is divided traditionally into starters, mains and puds, with the addition of one-course dishes consisting of salads and pastas.

But you can mix and match as you wish.

The cooking is reasonably classical and well grounded, with little that is unnecessarily fancy.

Expect a soup - butternut squash and coconut perhaps - or a mixed crostini platter.

Or grilled goats' cheese with aubergine caviar, or maybe an organic smoked salmon platter.

For main course artichoke risotto comes with smoked mozzarella and vies for attention with pan-fried fillet of bream with crayfish risotto.

Braised shank of lamb competes with a stunning steak - organic chargrilled 8oz rib-eye steak, served with hand-cut chips and glazed shallots.

Puddings are on the heavy side: glazed lemon tart with honey crème fraÎche, or Jack Daniel's pecan chocolate cake.

The drinks list is short, but there is a large enough range of wines, beers, spirits and juices to accommodate all but the most picky customers.