Tonight:
5°c
Fay Maschler's rating
Empress cares for subjects
By
Fay Maschler
6 Dec 2006
When Tom and Ed Martin open a new gastropub, you follow them, even to Victoria Park. After The Well in Clerkenwell, the White Swan in Fetter Lane and The Gun in Docklands, the brothers have launched The Empress of India. What was originally a late 19th-century public house has seen other uses including, most recently, a flower shop. Despite a long bar backed by an Art Deco mirror rescued from the Rex Cinema in Calcutta and the requisite open kitchen, a feeling of pubbiness has eluded the makeover.
There are too many bare wood dining tables in serried ranks and no really welcoming space for drinkers. Menu prices are restaurant prices.
The theme in deference to Queen Victoria's role as the Empress of India is hammered home by a mural of Indian temples and travellers on the wall of the dining area. The pub's name is picked out in black tiles on the white mosaic-tiled floor and ceiling fans turn, striving to lend a colonial air.
When my sister and I went for lunch last week nearly every other customer had a pushchair in tow. Their occupants looked a good deal more comfortable than we were, perched on the unexpectedly hard red leather banquette.
Chef is Tim Wilson who has worked at St John and at Medcalf in Exmouth Market. You might infer a tendency towards boisterous British food but that direct ion has been ameliorated somewhat in order to provide popular pub dishes like crab linguine with chilli, ginger and garlic and goat's cheese soufflé.
A first course of potted salmon with pickled cucumber was rather tame but warm salad of Arbroath smokie, dandelion and quail eggs upped the tempo.
In our main course corn-fed chicken with pancetta, avocado and spinach on sourdough with Roquefort dressing featured an excellent bird which had retained its juices in the grilling process. The crab linguine was gingered up nicely but best of all I liked the side dish of cauliflower cheese cooked to just the right point of al dente.
A request for fresh fruit as dessert - we could have had Spotted Dick or Bramley apple pie with malt whisky and oatmeal ice cream - stymied the formally dressed waitress but eventually it was produced. A juicing machine and a pile of fruit take pride of place on the bar.
The dinner menu has more choice and some tempting assemblies. A rotisserie in the kitchen comes into its own at Sunday lunchtime when Kerry Hill lamb with boulangère potatoes (baked under the spit?) and free range Suffolk chicken for two to share are offered.
As of last week, breakfast is being served and in the New Year, afternoon tea will be introduced. A children's menu is in place until 7pm. The Empress of India would seem to care for her subjects.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (7)
I'm in agreement with the majority of reviews and am a massive fan of The Empress of India. It's a wonderful pub, serving delightful food and drink, by friendly and helpful staff. I look forward to every visit.
- Quince, London, UK, 11/02/2010 12:09
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As a local and a regular to The Empress I think it's great!
One of my favourite pastimes of late is to have breakfast on Sunday and read the paper, the food is good quality, and the service is prompt and friendly, very welcoming, I will definitely be back again and again!
- Charlie, London, 17/07/2008 14:07
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I love The Empress and in its defence it has grown right into its stride over the last year.
It is a welcoming local restaurant for local families as well as a group of friends.
I was there the other day and enjoyed the duck leg and spring onion risotto, to accompany it there is a great selection of wines too.
Personally I love sitting outside and watching the world go by sipping on a bloody mary!
- Dora, London, 11/07/2008 15:46
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I tried to have lunch just before Christmas with a friend in The Empress.
It was very noisy and after waiting for more than half an hour they told us our ordered lunch was not possible to make. There was a lot of confusion with all the different staff whom's fault it was. Sorry but I don't have hours for a lunch break and left for a bagel at the bagelshop at the corner, which tasted wonderful and quick friendly service. The lunch menu at The Empress looked very pricey for east London.
I hoped they would organise the staff better, but after reading another review from Cristian I don't think so I will give it another go.
- Marco, London, 02/02/2007 16:16
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I had dinner at the EofI tonight and was glad to see that this new opening on Lauriston Road (which has seen a lot of changes in the past couple of years, and sadly not to the better) was busy - on a Tuesday evenening - but the noise was hard to bear and I left the place witha headache. Service is a touch too formal for what labels itslf as a gastropub, and you wouldn't really want to be served (or addressed) by five different staff. Front of house is strong on selling pre-dinner drinks, just that bit too pushy so no thanks. When you're ready to order your meal and drinks, however, you're being made to wait for another ten minutes because not everyone is 'authorized' to take the order. You what?! Food is good, but just that,and no more. It's not very appetizing either to find a dozen or so finger prints on your plate. After we'd been given the menu there was no one prepared to take the desert order for another 10 minutes so we decided to ask for the bill instead. And then we had to find our coats which had been 'taken care of' upon our arrival - but that particular member of staff had already left (at 9:30!). The Empress of India wants to be the gastropub for the 21st century - it's a contradiction in terms, in more than one sense.
- Christian, London, 12/12/2006 22:34
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The Empress is a welcome addition to the area. We love the roast chicken to share on Sundays.
- David, London, 06/12/2006 22:04
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An amazing addition to the newly refurbished area. Food great, service friendly and a great selection of wines by the glass. If I'm ever this end of London again, it will port of call.
- Michael Sheldon, Surrey, UK, 06/12/2006 20:49
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