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Fay Maschler's rating
Date at the lane
By
Fay Maschler
24.10.07
When I was growing up in Old Greenwich Connecticut, US, I used to have an imaginary boyfriend called Paul. It was a status thing. I would describe to anyone who would listen how Paul and I had been double-dating at the bowling alley. This was standard practice for teenagers at the time. Paul always achieved more strikes than I did.
That noise of the rolling ball scattering pins brought Paul back to mind at All-Star Lanes. I was with my real husband Reg, my son Ben and a mutual friend. Double-dating of a sort.
The chaps behind All-Star Lanes, Mark von Westenholz and the Breeden brothers, Charles and Adam, have gone the whole nine yards in creating an American experience. As well as a Diner, there is Milkshake and Soda Bar, a Cocktail Bar and saucy paintings by Barnaby Gorton.
Two chaps shared the grilled prime rib (includes two side dishes), Ben had the dish of the day, Arctic King Crab with drawn butter, and I chose Texas chilli con carne. We had Boston baked beans and butter-leaf green salad - also known as English lettuce - on the side. The steak was excellent with the flavour of grilling seared into the crust and the meat as rare as requested. The crab was as remarkable for its prehistoric appearance as its flavour. Texas chilli was fine.
In the first course shrimp cocktail was absolutely correct with its shiny sauce spiked with horseradish and some whole shrimps clinging to the side of the glass. Rita, the late mother of my first husband, could have told them how to make chopped liver and chopped egg and onion properly. She wouldn't have countenanced the sloppy purées produced. Crab cakes were light, crisp and crabby and didn't need the pointless garnish of red pepper.
I loved All-Star Lanes. I could listen to that clunk of bowling balls, drink Old Fashioneds and dream of perfect Paul all night.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (10)
I visited the Holborn All Star lanes last night and was pleasantly surprised- I'd heard that it was pricey but we had a game of bowling, 2 course meal and drinks (far too many for a mid week night!) and it worked out at about £30 each- bargain. Really love the bar area, it's a hidden gem. I'll definitely be dragging my colleagues down to the bar for after work drinks in the future.
- Michelle, London, 16/04/2009 17:34
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Really funky venue with fantastic service and great bar! Brings a whole new experience and style to bowling!
- Cs, London, 24/10/2007 16:07
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A great night out. For anyone trying to think of the standard pub alternative this is for you. Great drinks, great food and the bowling is more fun than you can imagine. I've been there with work and with friends - to both the West End and Bayswater venues.... and I didn't even think I liked bowling!
- Nick Garcia, London, UK, 24/10/2007 14:49
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This is one of the best places to go in West London. It's good for taking people on dates, work colleagues, even children (not too little).
Last time I went, my girlfriend's stepfather beat me in a bowl off. And he's got a hip replacement. Other than that unfortunate occurance, I've always had fun there...
- Rupert, London, 24/10/2007 14:31
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Headed to All Star with friends yesterday eve and had a fantastic time! Probably tasted the best milkshake I've ever had and the macaroni cheese was really good. Will make a swift return soon.
- Kimberley Brown, London UK, 24/10/2007 14:18
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Five stars all round.
- Sophie, London, 24/10/2007 14:14
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Great food, excellent cocktails and a fantastic atmosphere, book early though as the lanes get booked up really quickly.
- Eliot, London, UK, 24/10/2007 14:06
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A fantastic night out - bowling, delicious dinner, cockatils to die for, the perfect combination. I would reccomend this to anyone.
- Georgie D, London, 24/10/2007 14:05
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I have been to both All Star Lanes venues and more recently the one in Bayswater and I have to say I was very surprised by how good the food is. I went there for a friends birthday party and it was one of the best nights out I have had in a long time, the attention to detail on everything they do seems so well thought out, it seems they haven't just wanted to improve on normal bowling alley food, but have gone the whole hog and created a comendable restaurant (diner as they call it) in its own right. Steaks were excellent, the baby back ribs just fell off the bone and so moreish and I had the crab cake which was the best I remembering ever having, other friends seemed be enjoying what they had too. The food is really good but when you combine this with a great looking cocktail bar and the fun of bowling (without kids screaming or the local hoodie staring at you I might add!) it makes for a fantastic night out - I can't recommend this place highly enough.
- Rob Fitzgerald, London, 24/10/2007 13:59
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The bowling was great, but oh my God was the food bad! We went with a group of 8, had dinner after the bowling. It took at least 20 minutes before we got our menus and got a waiters attention. Before we started our order, we were told of the items that were not available anymore... a long list. BUT one of which was the French Fries! Can you believe that? A burger in a diner, but no fries? The food came very late, and was way below acceptable, sorry! Just stick to the bowling and the cocktails, leave the food to someone else!
- Paul, London, 24/10/2007 13:08
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