I try to approach new restaurants with an open mind, but when the pre-publicity witters on about husband-and-wife 'party kids', heirs of fashion designers and film producers, who have married their devotion to detoxing (her) and a love of fast food (him) to produce somewhere to take their 18-month-old son, it's virtually impossible to stop myself mentally sharpening the hatchet. Even the name set my teeth on edge.

The deal is this: it looks like a fast food outlet - short-order cooking behind a counter; booth seating - and the menu references the burger giants.

But everything is 100 per cent organic; fizzy drinks ('healthy cola', 'zingy lemonade') are sweetened with concentrated apple juice; chicken strips come with crudites and juices are freshly squeezed.

Ice-cream is lactose-free. Salads are rammed with spermy-looking little sprouts. Burgers taste like, er, beef. Chicken tastes like chicken. Chips taste like potato.

Blueberry vitality drink tastes like compost. It's a revelation - and perhaps the reason that the fussy children we recruited turned up their noses at everything, getting their own back by trashing the play area.

The owners (Sam and William Sarne) dealt with them charmingly, replacing rejected orders without a murmur while fixing broken fryers and carting around their own demanding toddler. And I came away, prejudice shattered, wishing them every success.

Two adults and three children ate for £35. 275 Portobello Road W11. Tel: 020 7727 4163. Tube: Ladbroke Grove