Tonight:
9°c
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New Moon is nothing if not an international advertisement for the hungry virtues of virginity and young people can’t get enough of it
The Twilight Saga: New Moon
Theatre
A smart, prickly and rewarding view of sexual and emotional confusion
Cock
Restaurants
Kitchen W8 is a bargain for this area, if such sophistication is what you crave
Kitchen W8
Too long and drawn out but very entertaining with excellent special effects
This is a peculiar play and does not work for me. Some of it is very funny but there are real flaws
Alex has a strong powerful voice and was faultless, she is far better now than she was on the X-Factor
London,
Evening Standard rating
Reader rating
Last Thursday the sun made a few half-hearted attempts to come out from behind the clouds. Holidaymakers sat stoically, their tracksuit tops pulled tightly around them, beneath the cliffs on the long stretch of West Bay beach. A few of the truly brave swam in the sea. We talked about a dip, scuffed our feet in the sand and then made straight for the Riverside Restaurant.
Originally a tent, then a hut, then a café serving fish and chips, roast dinners and cream teas, the restaurant, in the same ownership since 1964 and re-built in 1976 by architects Piers Gough and Roger Zogolovitch, serves the catch from local waters in agreeably simple style.
A booking made the day before had secured us a table tucked away in the lower level of the ground floor, where the children with us could mess about without annoying others. Friendly staff take children in their stride. An order of hot chocolate as a first course for the threeyearold was produced without an eyelid being batted.
Plaice fillets served with chive beurre blanc were unusually thick for a flat fish and had concomitant depth of flavour. Grilled fillet of brill with sorrel sauce and crispy spinach delighted someone new to brill. The Lyme Bay Dover sole was sensational. It was huge, as befitted its price of £24.75, perfectly timed and seasoned, and so hot it must have been rushed from the kitchen.
Desserts including Knickerbocker Glory are apparently a draw in themselves. A rather lacklustre lunch at Fishworks in Marylebone a few days later made me realise that it is better to go to the fish, than have the fish come to you.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
