Get this: Tuesday evening, day two of the new Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecute's opening and queues are already snaking out from its doors. There has been little publicity, no reviews. So how? Why?

Is it the ravishing sophistication of the food? Er, nope. This cute joint - an exact replica of the long-standing Parisian original of the same name (minus the wear and tear) - serves only steak and chips. And walnut salad. And some fruit flan-y, ice-creamy-type puddings. You can't even specify how you'd like your steak done. 'Medium rare?' I ask.

Mais is all very fine. Salad is Frenchly limp and well-dressed: Donald Russell steak (gets about, doesn't he?) is full-flavoured, the secret sauce - butter, anchovy, garlic, Parmesan, parsley and basil is my best guess - is stickily savoury. Chips, unlimited, are terrific.

Seasoned restaurateurs will be tearing their hair out trying to understand why this is such a sudden, spectacular success - as am I. But it's cheap, I liked it and I'd go back. Is it really as simple as that?

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £50. 120 Marylebone Lane W1. Tel: 020 7486 0878. www.relaisdevenise.com Tube: Bond Street