Most Chinese restaurants in London are Cantonese, ranging from surly Chinatown gloop dens to the sleek gorgeousness of Hakkasan.

A Chinese food fanatic pal pointed me towards an Elephant & Castle newcomer dishing out some of the most assured and authentic Cantonese food in town.

Set on the ground floor of a curious, blue-painted modern block, it's clear that loot has been spent on the glittering Hong-Kong-bling chandeliers, carved wood and kitschy Oriental flourishes.

But it's the menu that really impacts: ask for the 'other' menu and get a kaleidoscope of intrigue - from shark's fin to abalone via the admittedly terrifying goose feet with bÍche-de-mer (giant sea cucumber) - all helpfully, and unusually, translated into English.

With this kind of menu, there's always the danger of ordering a bummer: ours came in the shape of anodyne Chinese green onion chicken, poached in stock with spring onions and gai-lan; and some unremarkable, frozentasting soft-shell crab.

Otherwise, everything was ravishing: squidgy pork dumplings dancing with the sting of Sichuan peppercorns; aromatic minced pork in lettuce leaves; lamb chops 'Tibetans' in a thick, richly savoury sauce studded with red chilli; and some ravishing rice with egg white and dried scallop.

Dragon Palace is that rare thing in London: a genuine find.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about �80. 114 Walworth Road SE17. Tel: 020 7277 3388. Tube: Elephant & Castle