Via Condotti on Conduit Street: clever, huh? And that little namecheck of Rome's famous shopping street isn't the only clever thing about this new Italian on a site that has huckled off a number of pretenders, including Nico Ladenis.

For a start, there's the menu - vividly, unapologetically Italian, without even a nod to the Anglicised trat. So you get intriguing pasta shapes such as candele - like long, thin, openended cannelloni - and rustic ingredients such as rabbit and long-stewed baby octopus.

Breads roam over Italy, from Ligurian rosemary-scented, home-baked focaccia and Sicilian pane casarau to unsalted Tuscan bread (all fresher than you often get in the homeland).

Chef-patron Pasquale Amico's cooking is assured, performing a shade below the capital's finest Italians, but pretty good nonetheless: a succulent bunny was stuffed (as is currently modish) with its own innards and rosy little lamb chops came with balsamic onions. Only a somewhat workman-like prawn risotto let the side down.

The place is understatedly clever, too: a soothing palette of beiges with quality linen and vintage posters - just the right sort of luxury for an area infested with the Euro-loaded. A joint venture between front of house Richard Martinez, Amico from Campania, and redoubtable restaurateur Claudio Pulze, this operation has the legs to keep on running.