You can only suppose that in the Lebanon going out to eat is man's work.

That certainly seems to be the case around the Oxford Street end of the Edgware Road, where you'll find Abu Ali's bustling café.

This is an authentic place, the Lebanese equivalent of a northern working man's club, and men gather to smoke at the pavement tables.

It's a bit spartan in appearance, but the food is honest and good value.

Although you are unlikely to find many Lebanese women here, female diners get a dignified, if rather formal, welcome as befits their rarity.

There's nothing intimidating about the place or its clientele.

You will want a selection of starters.

Tabbouleh is bright green with lots of fresh parsley, lemon juice, oil and only a little cracked wheat - it even tastes healthy.

Houmous is rich and spicy, garnished with a few whole chickpeas and cayenne pepper.

Warak inab are thin and pleasantly sour stuffed vine leaves, served hot or cold.

Moutabal is also called babaganoush and is a rich dish of aubergine with sesame oil.

Kabis is a plate of tangy salt and sour pickles - cucumber, chillies and red cabbage - that comes free with every order.

For main dishes there's kafta halabiyeh, minced lamb kebabs with onion and spices.

Or there's kafta yogurtliyed, which is the self-same kebab served with good sharp yogurt.

The plain grilled meats are also good.

Try the boned-out poussin - farrouge moussahab.

To drink, there is mint tea - a Lipton's tea bag and a bunch of fresh mint in every pot - or soft drinks.

Try a bubble pipe and you will be fussed over by the charcoal man who sets up your pipe and sorts out a new mouthpiece; hardcore hookah puffers replace the water with Appletise and ice, for a really sweet and sickly smoke.