Merely the words 'park café' are enough to make a gastronaut cower, but with the arrival of the Garden Café that view may have to change.

In 1964 the new café (built under a roof made up of 31 copper hexagons) was the height of modernity and lovers of gastro trivia will enjoy the fact that this was the first 'Little Chef' in Britain.

Now the building is a cherished part of our architectural heritage, but thankfully something has been done about the food, which is now also worth cherishing.

Service is friendly in an egalitarian sort of way - no bookings are taken - and there is plenty of room both inside and al fresco.

The menu changes with the seasons, so winter starters range from honey-roast parsnip and Cox apple soup, to Parma ham served with shaved Parmesan and rather good sour dough toast.

Home-made potted shrimps are very good.

The menu writing sets the tone for the main courses: 'proper roast duck, sloe gin and damson braised red cabbage, mashed potato' - with the one caveat that the duck skin could be crisper, this is a very good dish.

Or there is leek and Roquefort tart, with a green salad; a macaroni cheese made with Montgomery's Cheddar; or a rib-eye steak.

There is always a decent salad served in a large, no-nonsense bowl and, to finish up, workmanlike puds.

The Garden Café is a pretty restaurant with good food, a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices.