When you nervously mention the word 'fusion' there is only one chef in London with a 24-carat bankable reputation and that is Peter Gordon, the amiable New Zealander.

His showcase is this restaurant, which he opened with a consortium of friends.

The resto part occupies an elegant room on the first floor.

Chairs are comfortable, tablecloths are white and simplicity rules - which is just as well, as the dishes are among the most complicated in town.

But these dishes all taste fresh, every flavour distinct, and each combination cunningly balanced.

The menu descriptions read like lists: smoky coconut and tamarind laksa with grilled tiger prawn, green tea noodles, crispy shallots, chicken-hijiki dumpling and coriander.

Puzzled? The rich, creamy, sweet coconut broth is covered with a scattering of crisp bits of shallot and laced with the contrasting textures of ribbon noodles and tiger prawns.

Or how about grilled kangaroo loin on a cassava fritter with spiced quandong relish and Greek yogurt? Mains may include roast sea bass on white bean and rosemary purée, lemon-braised fennel, lemongrass dressing and wasabi tobiko; roast lamb chump on bonita potatoes with roast beetroot and apple relish; or roast Barbary duck breast on sesame miso aubergines and bok choy with shiitake.

Desserts are equally elaborate: chocolate liquorice 'delice' with soured pink grapefruit, runny cream and chocolate almond wafers.

Downstairs there's a walk-in, informal, gentler-paced sort of eatery.