When Gordon Ramsay took over the restaurant at Claridge's, various regular customers both old and young held their collective breath.

But within a couple of years everything was set fair.

The dining room is still large, the service is still slick, but the food is much better than it used to be and, it could be argued, better value, too.

There's a good-value set lunch, which some reckon to be an even better bargain than the set lunch at Ramsay's Chelsea flagship (see p. 366).

Unfortunately, like its sibling, Claridge's is booked up far in advance.

While Gordon Ramsay has his name over the door, the head chef here is Mark Sargeant.

The menu changes with the seasons and among the starters you may find a velouté of cauliflower with a fricassée of wild mushrooms, artichokes and rocket; crisp ventrêche and poached quails' eggs; and a tian of Cornish crab with fennel, rocket and herb salad.

Presentation on the plate is elegant and seasoning spot-on.

Main courses might include roast canon of Cornish lamb served with confit shoulder, white bean purée, baby leeks and rosemary jus; pan-fried fillet of dorade with grilled asparagus, globe artichokes and vanilla sauce; or fillet of monkfish wrapped in Parma ham on a bed of cèpes risotto, white asparagus and five-spice sauce.

The desserts are equally considered: Valrhona chocolate fondant with feuillatine and malt ice cream.

Those with stalwart wallet and an inquisitive nature should consider booking the chef's table, which seats six in an alcove overlooking the kitchen.