Part of the Gordon Ramsay empire, with inspired cooking made complicated by the mechanics of the menu.

First things first, the menu here is a seasonal one, which is a wholly commendable approach.

It quickly gets more complicated; to start with, about twenty small dishes are listed and you are invited to choose between six and eight per person.

But if the grazing approach doesn't ring your bell, the next spread is more conventional and offers six starters and six mains - but all dishes drawn from the first selection.

The room is pleasant and modern, the service is sound enough, although all the explaining necessary tends to drag on.

'Grazing' - and all the other derivatives of the tasting menu - is a mixed blessing.

When a dish arrives that you like, you feel disappointed that there is not more of it on the plate; when a dish arrives that you don't like, you're just disappointed.

If you were to visit in the spring you might be offered pressed foie gras and smoked eel with pickled ginger and rhubarb, ginger brioche - good complementary textures, or Orkney scallops roasted with spices, golden raisin purée and cauliflower - sweet and subtle.

Other highlights might be a risotto made with peas, broad beans, wood sorrel and grated truffle; or roast turbot with five-spice oxtail, confit baby leeks and crushed peas; or pork cheeks with honey and cloves, roast chorizo, coco beans.

Desserts appeal - Valrhona chocolate fondant with green cardamom caramel, sea salt and almond ice cream.

Even as you find yourself wondering whether this is all triumph or gimmick, you realise that Maze is saved by the quality of the cooking.