Eating here is a palate-expanding experience.

The Square is very French, and food is terribly important here.

And in the gastro premier league - an arena where almost every commentator bows to the supremacy of French chefs and French cuisine - you cannot help a slight smirk that head chef Philip Howard, a softly spoken Englishman, has got it all so very, very right.

At The Square, the finest ingredients are sought out, and then what is largely a classical technique ensures that each retains its essential character and flavour.

This is a very gracious restaurant.

Service is suave, silent and effortless.

Seasoning is on the button.

Presentation is elegant.

The wine list seems boundless in scope and soars to the very topmost heights (where mortals dare not even ask the price).

The menu changes on a broadly seasonal basis.

Starters are dishes such as lasagne of crab with a cappuccino of langoustines and basil; assiette of foie gras: roast with fig and apple, mousse with redcurrant jelly, smoked ballotine with celeriac, cappuccino with beignet and truffle.

Mains may include baked turbot with a warm potato pancake, a fondue of leeks and velouté of truffle; loin of lamb with goats' cheese tortellinis, aubergine and apricot; twice-cooked pigeon from Bresse with a tarte fine of caramelised endive, five-spice and cherries.

Puddings - such as a fondant of chocolate with malted-milk ice cream - are classics.

Howard is an able man and Michelin's two-star measure of his worth is an underestimate.

There's also an eight-course 'tasting' menu (only for the entire table).

This is one treat you will never regret.