Following the success of The Cow (see p. 97), Tom Conran shifted his attention a few hundred yards up the road to a site that was previously a shabby café-restaurant-drinking den and set up Lucky Seven.

The kitchen runs across the back behind a high counter and the tiny dining area accommodates 36 people in two sets of booths.

There are engraved mirrors.

A Pepsi clock.

Sally didn't meet Harry here, but doubtless she will soon.

The menu is on a pegboard over the kitchen and it opens with breakfast dishes: two eggs any style; with sausage; with bacon; with Portobello mushrooms - wending its way through omelettes and eggs Benedict to buttermilk pancakes.

Then there's a section of 'soups, stews, salads, sides' before it moves towards 'sandwiches and fries'.

In the evening there's a blue plate special dish, which ranges from club sandwich to gammon and eggs.

For chips choose between 'fat' and 'French fries'.

The burgers are well made, although on the small side for serious trenchers - but, as they start at a reasonable price with the 'Classic hamburger', perhaps that is best resolved by ordering two separate Classics or a special with an extra patty of meat.

In the stews section you will come across such delights as New England clam chowder, and a Cuban black bean chilli (both of which are sold in two sizes, by the cup or by the bowl).

And then there are salads - Cobb, Caesar and 'Garden of Eden', plus the ominously but accurately named 'Exterminator chilli'.

Sounds like fair warning.