For most of its lifetime The Eagle was merely a run-down pub in an unpromising part of London.

Then, way back in 1991, it was taken over by food-minded entrepreneurs who transformed it into a restaurant-pub turning out top-quality dishes.

They were pioneers: there should be a blue plaque over the door marking the site as the starting place of the great gastropub revolution.

The Eagle has remained a crowded, rather shabby sort of place, and the staff still displays a refreshing full-on attitude.

The kitchen is truly open: the chefs work behind the bar, and the menu is chalked up over their heads.

It changes daily, even hourly, as things run out or deliveries come in.

The food is broadly Mediterranean in outlook with a Portuguese bias, and you still have to fight your way to the bar to order and pay.

The menu changes like quicksilver, but you may find the likes of the famous caldo verde - the Portuguese chorizo and potato soup that takes its name from the addition of spring greens.

There may be a grilled swordfish with peppers, mint, new potatoes and balsamico; a delicious and simple dish like roast spring chicken with preserved lemons, potatoes, mustard leaves and aioli; cuttlefish stew with chilli, garlic, parsley, onions and broad beans; or a rib-eye 'tagliata' with green beans and mixed leaves, radishes and horseradish.

To finish, choose between a fine cheese - perhaps Wigmore served with rhubarb jam and toast - or the siren charms of those splendid, small, Portuguese, cinnamony custard tarts - pasteis de nata.

Enjoy the lack of frills and the service that comes with a helping of attitude.