Moro has a secure place on the list of London's 'must visit' eateries.

In feel it's not so very far away from the better pub-restaurants, although the proprietors have given themselves the luxury of a slightly larger kitchen.

This has also become a place of pilgrimage for disciples of the wood-fired oven, and the food here hails mainly from Spain, Portugal and North Africa.

You'll probably have to book.

The à la carte changes every fortnight.

There's usually a soup, and it's usually among the best starters.

How does cauliflower, yogurt and coriander soup sound? Or you may be offered starters such as pan-fried calf's sweetbreads and artichoke hearts with cardamom, or blood orange, crisp bread and feta salad.

Main courses are simple and often traditional combinations of taste and textures.

As with the starters, it's the accompaniments that tend to change rather than the core ingredients.

Look out for wood-roasted brill, braised sweet and sour leeks with red pepper and walnut sauce; charcoal-grilled lamb with roast squash, cumin chickpea purée; or perhaps charcoal-grilled sea bass with wilted escarole and lentils.

Do not miss the splendid Spanish cheeses served with membrillo - traditional quince paste.

And there's no excuse for avoiding the Malaga raisin ice cream, or the serious bitter chocolate, coffee and cardamom truffle.

This is a place that effortlessly combines top-quality ingredients with very good cooking and comfortable service, and there is a grand list of moody sherries into the bargain.