When that meat itch needs scratching Santa Maria etc.

is a pretty good place to do it.

This resto seeks to recreate an Argentine 'Parrilla' - a kind of grill house.

There is a nod to vegetarians, but as a guideline start thinking meat.

Start with empanadas - there are three kinds on offer: beef, chicken, and spinach with cheese.

These small pastries are made with a good, light, crisp shortcrust pastry.

The main courses are split into two sections - first there are the 'platos principas' and then there are the 'parrilladas'.

The platos are simple - an 8oz or a 14oz prime Argentine sirloin steak; or rib-eye steak; or fillet steak; or rump steak.

Also good home-made sausages, and 'vacio de ternera', which is an Argentine speciality - veal flank steak.

The 'Parrilladas' (or brazier) is a small table-top griddle plate over a charcoal fire.

It ensures that your grub stays warm, pretty vital should you order a parrillada (for a minimum of two), because parrillada should be translated as meat mountain.

Order the 'Buen Ayre' and you are faced with two large sausages, well-seasoned and meaty; black pudding, very decent, floral and not too fatty; sweetbreads, marginally overcooked; kidneys, ditto; short ribs, excellent crispy bits; and flank steak, very close-grained and fatty.

The side order of chips is a worthwhile addition - very crisp, very fluffy.

Service is sound and the wine list un-grasping.

Pud-wise the famous and ultra sweet dulce de leche turns up in flans and cheesecakes.

Best to opt for the moody coffees - 'bombon' is a shot glass with a thick layer of condensed milk that has an espresso floating on top of it.