The Cantina del Ponte jostles for attention with its considerably pricier next-door neighbour, the upscale Pont de la Tour.

Thankfully, it does not try to keep up, but instead offers a different package.

Here you are greeted with the best earthy Italian fare, presented in smart Conran style.

The floors are warm terracotta, the food is strong on flavour and colour, the service is refined, and the views are superior London dockside.

Book ahead and bag a table by the window or, better still, brave the elements in summer and sit under the canopy watching the boats go by.

The seasonal menu is a gentle meander through all things good, Italian-style, with a tempting array of first courses, and mains that include pizza, pasta and risotto, not to mention side orders, puddings and cheeses.

Simple, classic combos like Mozzarella with aubergines always appeal.

Or there's grilled squid with chilli and rocket.

Veggie dishes such as gnocchi with cherry tomatoes and basil are good, or how about a classic like risotto primavera? The pizzas are well made and feature all the old favourites, like quattro formaggi, Margherita and Napoletana.

Main courses range from sea bass with rosemary, through lamb steak with courgettes, to scallops with pancetta and broad beans.

Puds veer from tiramisł, through torta di cioccolata and noci, to pannacotta with rhubarb.

It's worth noting that you can order pizzas 'to go' from the Cantina, which is certainly a boon for locals.