This bistro in affluent Grove Park is a first step across the river for Redmond and Pippa Hayward - who run Redmond's (see p. 353) in Sheen.

The look here isn't aggressively designery, but the room is clean and fresh.

There are 30 or so seats in the main dining room, bolstered by a few tables in a conservatory out the back, and an area of pavement in front of the restaurant that will take a few outdoor tables.

The service is friendly and efficient.

The food is very good.

Strong flavours, quality ingredients, well presented.

The king of the starters is the Burlington platter, which is a one-plate antipasti trolley: roast peppers/olives/salt cod brandade/creamy celeriac remoulade/slow-roast belly pork/chorizo/a coffee cup mushroom and rosemary soup/black pudding/smoked salmon/duck liver parfait/gravlax.

Simple and excellent.

Or there may be a salad of artichokes and green beans with wild mushrooms and hazelnut dressing.

Mains range from pan-fried bream fillet with fennel and orange salad, new potatoes and tarragon sauce; to perfectly cooked calves' liver with a lemon and thyme risotto; or a grandstand dish like roast marinated pigeon breasts, soft thyme polenta, black pudding, caramelised endive, seared foie gras and Port jus - a very good, very rich combo.

Hayward has a knack for bringing out light, bright herbal flavours - the thyme polenta is stunning.

Puds are stalwart - dark chocolate tart with rosemary and caramel ice cream; blood orange and vodka jelly with coffee madeleines.