Daylesford Organic's new Pimlico store is a show-stopper. Three storeys of pristine, pearly-marble-clad food porn for the urbanite gagging for a little rus in urbe action without any of the cows or manure or need for high-heel removal.

Bakers bake sourdough bread at the entrance, giving you a waft of the high-end behaviour to come: meat and cheese from the Daylesford farm; own-make relishes, jams and sauces in chickenwire-fronted, armoire-friendly, faux rustic packaging; glamorous vegetables such as romanesco; cakes and ready meals.

The lunch menu is short and pleasingly heavy on comfort foods - soups, rarebits and the like. We try some velvety Spanish ham that's less Jabugo and more Parma, not handcarved, with mustard-spiked celeriac remoulade and sourdough toast.

Oily smoked salmon fishcakes have collapsed: sloppiness or evidence of home-madeness, we're not sure. And a dinky organic beef burger is dense and defiantly unjuicy. Expensive? Of course. With one starter, no puddings and no alcohol, our lunch costs nearly £50.

The loaded locals are loving it: teeth are gnashed in the attempt to score a so-hot pavement table. If Miuccia Prada opened a farmer's market, it might look just like this.