The 'nueva cocina' style of Spanish cooking has set its homeland on fire, alienating some purists along the way but gaining Spain a worldwide reputation as the cradle of all that's exciting.

Chef Antonio Belles and his wife Cristina are offering a snapshot into some of the innovation in their vivid little red and white restaurant, Lola Rojo on South London's foodie ghetto street. Alongside the recognisable tapas and paellas are some dazzling displays of creativity.

Take our 'coulant' (usually a chocolate fondant) of pulpo: fine octopus on squelchy, dark butifarra sausage, with crushed potato and a core of runny egg yolk. Or our first-class suckling pig, its crackling like brittle toffee and its flesh succulent, with a sorbet of thyme and a vanillascented apple sauce.

Of course, some of the imagination misfires: we didn't need the Terence Stamp-style veg crisps with the pig; a dish of mackerel confit on tasteless aubergine and sun-dried tomatoes didn't come off. Puddings - a 'soup' of white chocolate with thyme, and a dense curl of heady chocolate with sea salt and olive oil - divided our table but I loved them. Iberian Recebo ham from Guijuelo was good: furrowed with fat like Japanese otoro, and silkily subtle.

Service can be ditsy but they're so sweet you forgive them, and prices are reasonable. Hello, little Lola.