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Fay Maschler's rating
A joyless dining area
By
Fay Maschler
9 May 2007
After 15 years, my friend Jonathan Meades gave up reviewing restaurants for The Times because finally he despaired of the catering business in England. He has since moved to France.
Before he left he told me that the two London restaurants he regularly used were Kensington Place (when Rowley Leigh was chef) and Santa Maria del Buen Ayre in Broadway Market. I was particularly pleased about the latter since it had been my recommendation to him.
In 2005 this new restaurant specialising in Argentinian steaks grilled over charcoal was funky and laid-back. Now two sittings are imposed, which doesn't quite chime with the whispering grasses of the pampas.
Perhaps to accommodate the crowds - although some say it follows a split between the original partners - a version of Santa Maria has been opened in Battersea. When first I tried to book for a Friday evening, I was told I could come at 6.30pm or 10pm. No thanks.
Last Tuesday, there was no problem about eating at dinner time. In fact there were few other customers. Here in Queenstown Road the charcoal grills are separated from the dining area which, when under-populated, is a joyless place.
Menus inside plastic covers speak of a formula rarely meddled with. We started with Serrano ham, which was plentiful, and marinated ox tongue - a greater quantity than was desirable. Our choice of parillada, a table-top enamel dish containing hot coals, was Al Paso - flank steak, short ribs and spicy sausage. Dark crusts revealed quite decent meat but it had the melancholy feel of an English barbecue.
Chips "Provençal" (sprinkled with garlic and parsley) seemed not even made of potato. Taro maybe? Green salad was a metal bowl filled with bitter rocket and lollo rosso, two of the most disagreeable leaves on the planet.
Consolations were the red wine and dulce de leche squeezed around a grainy crème caramel (flan). No one had said "hello" and no one said "goodbye".
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (4)
What a terrible experience Santa Maria Del Sur (Battersea)was Easter Monday. I had booked a table for my girlfriend and me, to celebrate her birthday. I had made the reservation for six pm was told we are very busy; you can have a table but only 1half hour. This was ok, we arrived at the restaurant at 5.55pm and they did not open the door until 6:10pm leaving us and others to stand outside on a horrible grey pavement and not a nice stretch of the Queenstown road. I should have known the night was going to be bad right then. We were seated no smiles or welcome, or sorry to leave you standing outside a main busy road; and for opening late.
The grill hadn’t even been lit! As most people know it takes a grill at least 30-45 minutes to reach the correct temperature. It seemed they were still preparing to open as customers were in their seats ordering. Really bad ethos.
I had the tuna steak at 6 15pm to start and asked for it to be left pink inside. It arrived at 6 45pm overcooked. We had waited 30 minutes for our starters; I didn’t say anything.
Then I asked for my fillet steak to be cooked medium, it arrived charred outside and red rare inside. When I cut in to the chips oil seeped out of them, obviously the oil hadn’t been heated and was cold when the chips were put in. Then the insult to injury, the head guy comes and asks me if I mind moving from our table to one at the back for dessert. His grill was late, they opened the door late i move. £75-no dessert 1drink £9ser
- Jbs, London, 06/04/2010 15:27
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I have recommended the broadway market joint to many people, and have been a good dozen times myself. A great carni fest - simple and uncomplicated. Service is the genuine thing - snooty and arrogant.
Now, however I ring up to book a table (because you now have to book) and they don't have a table til 9.15 and they want a £60 deposit.
This is a step too far.
Any goodwill has now evaporated. Why don't they just demand that you pre order and pay (incl 2.5% discretionary service) before you eat there, instead of just demanding the profit margin. That way if you don't show, as they obviously believe you wont and obviously hope yo wont then you might be able to claim a cold meal the following day.
Success means these people now suck on their parilla air extractor.
- Danny, Hackney, London, 07/04/2008 20:59
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I've been a regular at this restaurant (and the one in Broadway Market) since they both opened. I've wined and dined in almost 30 countries and Santa Maria Del Sur is one of the three best restaurants I've ever been to (which is why I keep going back).
I couldn't disagree with Fay's review more. The staff at Santa Maria Del Sur are extremely welcoming and hospitable and the food and atmosphere is as authentically Argentinian as I've ever experienced at an Argentine restaurant outside of Argentina. Even in Argentina this restaurant would be considered noteworthy.
Perhaps Fay should put her colloquial views aside for an evening and try the restaurant again, with an open mind. Or perhaps not, as it's one less person I have to compete with to get a table ...
- Fatima Sabatini, London, 14/10/2007 21:31
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We went on a Saturday night for dinner. The staff were freindly and welcoming.
This restaurant is definitely about good red meat well cooked and interesting new world wines - both were on offer during our visit and with some of the best pricing for steaks in London and in an appealing venue
I was initally put off by Fay's review, having been to the original restaurant in Broadway market - but her description was a 1000 miles from what greeted us that evening.
If you are looking for an uncomplicated evening in a convivial atmosphere with great steaks and wine these two restaurants are hard to beat.
- Alex Tanner, London, 14/10/2007 20:31
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