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Restaurants

London,

La Saveur


Rating: 3 out of 5 Critic rating
Rating: 3.5 out of 5

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201 Upper Richmond Road West, SW14 8QT

Phone: 8876 0644

Nearest train: Mortlake Overground network

Nearest tube: Mortlake Transport for London

Cuisine: French

Receive a warm welcome

Le Saveur
Warm welcome: Le Saveur

29 Aug 2007


Tuesday is the new Friday - if you live in East Sheen, that is. La Saveur (the latest addition to the Les Amis de Brula restaurant group that also includes Brula in Twickenham and La Buvette in Richmond) was so buzzy, we were momentarily confused about what day of the week it was. So what's the big draw of this apparently modest neighbourhood joint? It sure isn't the identikit Bistros-R-Us interior of wood panelling, mirrors, brass railings and art nouveau prints. And you wouldn't cross the road for the bog standard baguette and OK butter.

But the warm welcome from the smartly turned-out waiter who led us to a generously proportioned table for two was worth the detour. A little pot of complimentary pork rillette scented with star anise showed that the kitchen had an eye for detail. Add a reasonably-priced menu of reassuringly familiar French favourites, such as onglet steak with red wine and shallot sauce, and a wallet-friendly wine list and it's easy to understand why the locals are so eager to start their weekends early.

The meal wasn't faultless, however. A perfectly grilled whole Dorset plaice was let down by a dull fennel, broad bean, red onion and mint salad and the complete lack of any sauce.

Creme brulee was grainy rather than silky smooth. But a textbook foie gras parfait, delicious guinea fowl with morels, asparagus and peas and excellent cheeses from La Fromagerie made for a highly recommendable meal.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £85. 201 Upper Richmond Road West SW14. Tel: 020 8876 0644. Rail: Mortlake

Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.

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