Weather Afternoon: 14°c Light showers Tonight: 9°c Light showers

Critics' Choice

Film

Andrew O'Hagan

quoteNew Moon is nothing if not an international advertisement for the hungry virtues of virginity and young people can’t get enough of itquote

Andrew O'Hagan The Twilight Saga: New Moon Theatre

Henry Hitchings

quoteA smart, prickly and rewarding view of sexual and emotional confusionquote

Henry Hitchings Cock Restaurants

David Sexton

quoteKitchen W8 is a bargain for this area, if such sophistication is what you crave quote

David Sexton Kitchen W8

Reader reviews

Film

Adam, Harrow

quoteToo long and drawn out but very entertaining with excellent special effectsquote

2012 Theatre

Rob, London

quoteThis is a peculiar play and does not work for me. Some of it is very funny but there are real flawsquote

The Habit Of Art Music

Bernard, London

quoteAlex has a strong powerful voice and was faultless, she is far better now than she was on the X-Factorquote

Alexandra Burke

Five London diffusion restaurants

By Fay Maschler, Evening Standard  14.11.07
 
Tom's Kitchen

Tom's Kitchen: Undeniably popular

Comptoir Gascon

Comptoir Gascon: Rustic food

Barrafina

Barrafina: Takes no bookings

Look here too

Critic Fay Maschler takes a look at five diffusion restaurants in the capital.

Tom's Kitchen, 27 Cale Street, SW3 (020 7349 0202) £50
This part of Chelsea seems a goldmine, presumably a factor in Tom Aikens's next project, a fish and chip restaurant and takeaway at 1a Cale Street due early next month. His eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant is in nearby Elystan Street. Surroundings featuring white-tiled walls and bare refectory tables can bring noise and discomfort in their wake but the Kitchen's popularity is undeniable.

L'Atelier De Joel Robuchon, 13-15 West Street, WC2 (020 7010 8600) £70
Joel Robuchon, perhaps the most fêted French chef of modern times, retired at 50. His worldwide chain of ateliers (workshops) is the - perhaps inevitable - comeback. "L'Atelier is about simplicity, quality and informality," Robuchon has stated. Complexity, artistry and daring in the dishes is therefore a bonus. Sitting up at the counter in the ground-floor restaurant is the best place to be. Interacting with staff as well as your neighbour adds to the pleasure of the performance. "Simplicity" doesn't come cheaply but a set-price lunch menu - £27/£35 for two/three courses, mineral water and coffee - has just been launched (Mon-Fri only).

Comptoir Gascon, 61-63 Charterhouse Street, EC1 (020 7608 0851) £38
Pascal Aussignac was recently proclaimed something like Best French Person in London. I wasn't canvassed but I would have added my vote. Aussignac, with his business partner Vincent Layberie, brought the flavours and traditions of south-west France to Smithfield. In Club Gascon, Aussignac lets his creativity run rampant. At the Comptoir on the other side of the market he offers the sort of rustic food that people who went on holiday to Gascony raved about.

Barrafina, 54 Frith Street, W1 (020 7813 8016) £49
The tapas bar Cal Pep in Barcelona is the inspiration credited by Sam and Eddie Hart, who opened Fino in Charlotte Street. Although there is a bar where you can eat, Fino is very much a restaurant. Barrafina, the Soho offshoot, takes no bookings and with only 23 seats at the L-shaped counter, Cal Peppy crowds soon build up. Something grilled a la plancha is a must. Tortillas are also cooked to order, resulting in something unctuous rather than - as has been known elsewhere - a substance useful for lagging pipes.

The Hinds Head, High Street, Bray, Berks (01628 626 151) £42
Heston Blumenthal works with the Tudor Kitchen at Hampton Court Palace in order to recreate recipes of old England. For some reason that gets less press attention than his evocation of a beach with seaside sounds played through a headset while the customer eats "sand" made from tapioca maltodrexin, powdered kombu (kelp) and miso oil at The Fat Duck. But British traditions win out at his Hinds Head pub where dishes such as pea and ham soup, oxtail and kidney pudding and Lancashire hot-pot also require - and receive - appropriate alchemy.

Prices estimate a meal with wine for one.

Related articles

More


Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.

 

Reader reviews (0)

 Add your review

No comments have so far been submitted.


Add your comment

 

Your email address will not be published

Terms and conditions make text area bigger You have  characters left.


 
 


 
 
London's Weather
Afternoon
Light showers
14°c
Tonight
Light showers
9°c
5 day forecast
 
 

Daily Mail Mail on Sunday Travel Mail This is Money Metro

Loot | Jobsite | Homes & property | London jobs | FindaProperty.com | Primelocation.com | Educate London | Holiday Villas