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Critic rating
Dining goes upmarket in this shopping mall
Larushka Ivan-Zadeh, London Lite 21 Nov 2007
Dinner for two in a shopping mall: £130?! You cannot be serious. Well, that's what I used to think, given that my previous culinary experience at Whiteleys of Bayswater was a bag of pre-cinema pick'n'mix. Blessed with its own "exclusive" entrance in Porchester Gardens, this new venture is named after a great Parisian restaurant. Sounds pretentious, oui? Actually, non. Founders Rowley Leigh and Charlie McVeigh know how to create quality stayers. Only a week in, and the chic champagne bar is squealing with girlie groups.
The slightly over-bright, closely tabled dining room balances cool, clean deco lines with the bustle and warmth of a monster open rotisserie. The menu took about a day to read, but you'll struggle to choose a dud. My starter, smoked eel salad with bacon (£10), was generous and satin soft. The friend's foie gras terrine with PX jelly (£11) was perfection on toast. No wonder her French partridge with cabbage and bacon (£15) defeated her, despite its rustic flavour. My simple steamed whiting (£16.50) was also spot on. The £7.50 price tag on the fruit was made less painful by the beautiful little pot of rice pud it came with. So "affordable luxury" as it promised? Only just, if you play it safe with the wine list.
As we glided out into the shopping hell, my friend said how it all suddenly felt as surreal as The Truman Show. Yes, I agreed, except everything at Le Café Anglais really was as good as it gets.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (1)
We ordered Rock Oysters which were gritty, muddy and were served with out forks it took the staff 20 mins to locate oyster forks after we asked for them. The sea bass and whiting were pretty good however the staff forgot half our vegetable order so again we had to wait whilst they cooked them after reminding them of the missing items. The pudding was a fiasco first of all we were told that there was no trifle not that we wished to order it so we ordered chocolate souffle, apple crumble and quince tart. We were then told that the souffle had collapsed so we said no problem make us another. The souffle that was served was uncooked and runny further more instead of the crumble they served trifle when the crumble arrived it was very bland. The mint tea was served as hot water with a tea bag on the side in an area full of arabic cafes serving fresh mint tea. To be honest there are many better places to eat in Bayswater which are better value and have better decor and also with better quality food. As a local resident I have alway been rather dubious of the restaurants in Whiteley and my experience of Cafe Anglais has only served to confirm my pre-conceptions that restaurants in shopping malls are not very good and have extremely naff decor. I definitely will not be returning and would discourage others from venturing there.
- Nishat Sattar, Bayswater , London, UK, 04/12/2007 10:43
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