Morning:
14°c
Commuters on the London Undergound face pre-Christmas disruption after engineering and electrical workers voted for industrial action in a row over pay
More...
New Moon is nothing if not an international advertisement for the hungry virtues of virginity and young people can’t get enough of it
The Twilight Saga: New Moon
Theatre
A smart, prickly and rewarding view of sexual and emotional confusion
Cock
Restaurants
Kitchen W8 is a bargain for this area, if such sophistication is what you crave
Kitchen W8
Too long and drawn out but very entertaining with excellent special effects
This is a peculiar play and does not work for me. Some of it is very funny but there are real flaws
Alex has a strong powerful voice and was faultless, she is far better now than she was on the X-Factor
London,
Critic rating
Reader rating
Description: Situated on the fourth floor in Fortnum & Mason, St. Jamess Restaurant serves traditional British food using the best seasonal British ingredients. Formal luncheons and afternoon teas are served in these relaxed and elegant surroundings. Reservations are always recommended. For weekdays 1 day in advance is recommended and for Saturdays, 2-3 weeks are advised to ensure availability.
Phone: 020 7734 8040
Website: http://www.fortnumandmason.co.uk
Open: Tues - Sat 11.30am - 5.30pm Closed Sunday, Monday and Bank Holidays
I have raved before about the ravishing refurb of the grande dame of grocers, Fortnum & Mason. So an afternoon appointment in the St James's Restaurant seemed like just the thing for a dismal, fag-end-of-the-festive day.
The magic decorating hand of David Collins has either been mightily restrained here or not used at all; it looks less like its glittering downstairs neighbours and more like God's waiting room. Eastern European staff couldn't quite get to grips with us (we wanted afternoon tea, but in the restaurant, not the stuffy sofa section) and led us from pillar to post.
The tea itself was lovely, bijou but lovely. Tiny portions of the likes of rare breed egg mayo and poached salmon with crème fraiche were bolstered by some teeny savoury tarts and scones the size of petits fours.
We tested the unspoken tea rule by ordering more and it was brought without a murmur or an addition to the bill, which still came to a gasp-inducing £83. Sure, we had champagne, but only a glass each, not a magnum.
Lunches look vaguely appealing - black pudding with 'devil'd sauce'; roast Goosnargh chicken breast - but not enough to demand a return. I'd much rather be downstairs at the infinitely lovelier Fountain.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
