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Restaurant reviews London,

Tom Ilic

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Cuisine: British, Modern
A meal for two with wine, about £80 including 12.5 per cent service

123 Queenstown Road, SW8 3RH

Nearest Train: Queenstown Road Overground network
Nearest Tube: Vauxhall Transport for London

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Description: From the eponymous chef, a superior local bistro, on a Battersea site that's seen off a couple of very superior local bistros in recent years; while we enjoyed our visit, we left unsure whether the formula is quite strong enough to shake off the jinx.


Food: Food rating   Service: Service rating   Ambience: Ambience rating  

Phone: 020 7622 0555
Website: http://ww.tomilic.com

Open: Lunch Wednesday-Friday noon-2.30pm (3.30pm Sun). Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 6-10.30pm

Dress code: None

Good for: Good food, Ambience.

Payment options: All major cards accepted

 
 
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Meaty restaurant is great for pigging out

Larushka Ivan-Zadeh, London Lite 23.01.08
 
Tom Ilic

Pork of the town: Tom Ilic is very popular

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Gordon Ramsay, Tom Aikens and Gary Rhodes all call their restaurants after themselves - but that's because they're Gordon, Tom and Gary, innit? Tom Ilic has been simmering away on the City scene for years (Bonds, Addendum), but is that reputation enough to get bums on seats in rainy Battersea? It would seem so.

By 8.30pm this large, hectically staffed space was packed with groups of youngish punters, dressed the more casual end of smart - and they weren't here for the decor. With magnolia walls, yukka plants and the kind of floor tiles whose allure could only have been "doesn't show the dirt", this restaurant was so featureless you could imagine wandering in and forgetting why you came.

The implicit promise is that the main event is the food. And when I say "food" I mean meat. And when I say "meat" I mean pork. Such is Tom Ilic's love of it he even has a cartoon oinker on his logo. No surprise then that my starter - two plump braised pig's cheeks pillowed with lip-smacking chorizo and snuggled in sinfully creamy garlic mash (£5.50) - was superbly moreish and worryingly filling. As my friend's starter - nutty sauteed calf sweetbreads with a too-stolid oxtail ravioli (£6.75) - confirmed, this was not going to be a light meal.

Ilic is a master of the winter warmer: slow-cooked meats with richly reduced sauces. Even my deliberately "lighter" main - scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts (£13.50) came with, you've guessed it, pig: a frustratingly dry honey roast pork belly that failed to combine convincingly with the dish's other disparate elements.

My friend found her slow-cooked beef with roasted bone marrow and garlic bread (£12.95) "slightly dry but lovely". Ditto our shared (and happily pork-free) dark chocolate fondant pud (£4.50).

So why is Tom Ilic so popular? Butchly cooked twists on "proper" British food, great to booze to, at low prices. And that's something worth putting your stamp on.

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