"I've got pub deja vu," whispered my friend. I knew exactly what she meant. It's not like either of us had been to this Camden boozer before. But the second we stepped through to the upstairs restaurant we felt like voyagers returning to planet gastropub.

Charmingly mismatched wooden chairs? Check. Fireplace? Check. Kooky old chandeliers? Check. Plus, a menu chalked on blackboard, browny-red painted walls, gorgeous fresh-baked bread and friendly young staff. Like beans on toast it was comfortingly British and so familiar.

A cursory glance suggested the same for the menu, but you shouldn't judge a gastropub by its cover too hastily. My smoked salmon starter (£6), coarsely chopped into an appetisingly presented swirl arrived like a patty of steak tartare, done up with black olives, truffle and a tiny boiled egg on top. My friend's grilled goat's cheese (£5) was a real showstopper, accompanied by a flamboyant sail of toasted horseradish and a piquant scoop of quince sorbet.

Mains were a bit of a letdown. My mate's roasted pheasant (£10.95) was the business, generously portioned with scrummy olive mash, but my sheep and ale pie with mushrooms (£9.95), though high quality, was just too richly reduced and sticky to wade through. And doth a lone wafer perched like some jaunty puff pastry beret constitute a "pie"?

Non! Yet there was a final twist. Too stuffed to be tempted by the desserts, we went for fragrantly excellent coffee and petits fours (£3.50). Expecting a titchy pick'n'mix saucer, we got two decadent orange chocolate brownies. Here's a local pub that certainly leaves you full of its surprises.