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London,
Fay Maschler's rating
Reader rating
Phone: 020 7483 4848
Open: Open lunch Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm (4pm Sat and Sun). Dinner Tues-Sun 6-10.30pm (9.30pm Sun)
Dress code: Casual
Payment options: All major cards except Diners and Amex
Nothing if not enthusiastic: Jean-Christophe Slowik takes great pleasure in nourishing his customers
To me it seems unlikely that restaurateur Jean-Christophe Slowik will roll out his concept.
Concept is not a word that he or anyone else would associate with what is so obviously - and seductively - his passion. After 20 years of working front-of-house for Marco Pierre White, this effervescent Burgundian has finally got a place of his own.
He has taken on a site that has seen almost as many ventures come and go as I have had hot dinners, but he bought it with the important proviso that the floor be reinstated at ground level. In the past, a few tables on a sort of ledge at the front tended to remain empty while whatever action there was took place out of sight.
When I rang to book (anonymously) Jean-Christophe said: "Yes, come! I'll manage to squeeze you in". Believe me, this is an unusual response. So many restaurants are just thrilled to say that whatever time it is you want to eat is impossible. We were squeezed on to a table beside the kitchen serving hatch.
Jean-Christophe worked the ground-floor room single-handedly inspiring customers with his enthusiasm - actually happiness would be a better word.
The menu which could define the phrase French bistro is prepared by a French chef who has worked at The Bleeding Heart in Hatton Garden.
All the usual suspects such as onion soup, Lyonnais salad, Bayonne ham with celeriac remoulade, duck confit, steakfrites, crème caramel and tarte Tatin are present and correct but there are also more insightful dishes like pain perdu with mushrooms and shallots and papillote of sea bream with spinach, fennel, spicy carrots and celeriac. We tried both of those and very good they were.
Aberdeen Angus rib-eye contributed to the satisfactory nature of steak and chips served with Béarnaise. He who had chosen grilled breast of chicken served with mixed leaves commented on how much flavour had been beaten into the flattened fillet of the bird.
An "aumonière", a crêpe fashioned into what my mother would have called a Dorothy Bag, stuffed with sautéed apple was one of the daily specials. These make up part of the lunch menu offered as a "formule" at £8.50 for two courses or the same price for one course, one drink and coffee.
Jean-Christophe Slowik may have worked in London for a long time, but good French habits, including taking pleasure in nourishing others, have not been forgotten.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
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