Bianco Nero is indeed black and white, a cool, contemporary modern Italian that wouldn't look out of place in Milan.

Once inside, furnished with a glass of chilled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (there's no blinkered jingoism with this wine list) and some excellent, airy focaccia, the carbon monoxide hell of Hammersmith Broadway outside seems miles away.

Our food, from ex-Al Duca head honcho Aron Johnson, is pretty cool, too: some trad northern Italian dishes like Florentine ribollita (bread and cavalo nero soup) jostle with nouveau upstarts like my starter of tender calamari with a brilliant, silky, sweet and sour red pepper sorbet.

Equally good are pearly scallops with a slick of celeriac mayonnaise. Primi are deftly realised: red wine risotto is headily savoury, spiked with the bitter punch of radicchio; and I love my perfectly al dente conchigliette piled with Italian sausage and broccoli in tomato sauce.

The place is bustling - locals have rapidly realised there's a gem on their doorstep - but service doesn't miss a beat. The fact that Bianco Nero is such a chilled, attractive place to hang out is a triumph over its location.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £90. 206-208 Hammersmith Road W6. Tel: 020 8748 0212, www.bianconerorestaurants.com. Tube: Hammersmith