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An awesome and ridiculous film that leaves you thrilled beyond the point of your natural endurance
2012
Theatre
The show has suddenly become quite wonderful, and the galvanising factor is the terrific stage debut of Melanie C
Blood Brothers
Music
The British pop music industry may be eating itself but if Muse are the pick of what it can offer the world in 2010 then British music is in rude health indeed
Muse
I was smitten by both Gilberts enormous luxuriant moustache and the intelligence and nuance of this highly entertaining play
I totally recommend Babbo to anyone who is looking for really good and traditional Italian food
Always been a fan but never seen them live. I was ecstatic to be part of this epic event. WOW!
London,
Sebastian Shakespeare's rating
Reader rating
Description: From the eponymous chef, a superior local bistro, on a Battersea site that's seen off a couple of very superior local bistros in recent years; while we enjoyed our visit, we left unsure whether the formula is quite strong enough to shake off the jinx.
Food: 
Service:
Ambience: 
Phone: 020 7622 0555
Website: http://ww.tomilic.com
Open: Lunch Wednesday-Friday noon-2.30pm (3.30pm Sun). Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 6-10.30pm
Dress code: None
Good for: Good food, Ambience.
Payment options: All major cards accepted
Polish waitress Alicja Mach loves the slow-cooked filet of beef and dark chocolate fondant
Some years ago, a friend was eating mushroom risotto in a top-quality restaurant when she discovered a cigarette butt in her mouth. No wonder her favourite dish was ash coloured, she realised: the chef must have been sprinkling it in for years.
The restaurant has since changed hands, but it is one of the hitherto undeclared advantages of the smoking ban that none of us will ever again have to eat cigarette butts. That isn't to say there aren't other perils lurking.
So you can imagine my unease when my wife gasped in horror halfway through her first course at Tom Ilic. She had identified a rogue element in the otherwise delicious croustillant of calf's head. We feared the worst, but luckily, on closer examination, it was only a lemon pip.
Those who believe South London is a culinary desert seem to have had their prejudices confirmed by the 2008 Michelin Guide. Forty-three restaurants north of the river gained one or more stars, while only two establishments south of the river notched up just one star each (The Glasshouse and Chez Bruce). This is, of course, highly misleading. South London is full of up-and-coming venues, of which Tom Ilic is the latest choice example.
The Serbian-born chef is very much a foodie favourite, and his eponymous restaurant has been hailed for its imaginative recipes. The location may be unprepossessing, but hats off to the chef for at least trying to put Battersea on the culinary map. What's more, it has just been voted Best Value for Money in London in Which? Good Food Guide. He can afford to keep prices down because he uses cheap cuts of meat (bone marrow, necks and so on).
Do not be put off by the pig logo outside. The happy porker emerges from the 'o' in Tom like Bugs Bunny in the cartoon's credits. Ilic may be thumbing his nose - or snout - at food snobs, but he runs the risk of alienating casual passers by who might mistake his restaurant for a Happy Eater offshoot. This would be a shame because his food deserves to be taken more seriously.
The room is modern with archways and mirrors used to spacious effect; yucca plants dotted about provide colour. But the acoustics are not good, and it was sometimes hard to hear yourself speak.
The halogen lamp above us was hanging out of the ceiling like a disconnected eyeball, disturbingly emblematic of the visceral cuisine on offer.
Happily, the service was polite (they moved us to another table) and there was more attention to detail on the plate. The butter was so good it was like fudge, and the sweetness and softness of the bread was exemplary. My half-bottle of Rioja came on its own little podium.
Only when you study the menu in detail do you appreciate what a great bargain it is. The main courses are all less than £15 and most puddings less than a fiver. But sometimes there are too many competing flavours.
I chose crab and avocado salad with gazpacho vinaigrette as a starter: it looked splendid but I couldn't taste the crab as it was too oniony and wet. There was not enough contrast in texture. Crab is such a delicate meat it is best eaten on its own. The calf's head was, however, a revelation; so delicate it almost melted in the mouth. Ilic's main courses defy expectations.
The roast saddle and braised neck of lamb was succulent. His signature dish, assiette of pork, restores fun to the dining experience. It's like being given a jigsaw and having to identify which bit of pig you're feasting on.
I'm afraid the restaurant failed the Evening Standard's Water on Tap test. The water came in two glasses but the waitress declined to leave the jug on the table. 'It's so I can give you good service and it gives us the chance to chat,' she said with a winning smile. The strategy didn't work: I spent all night trying to get her attention to refill my glass.
The puddings were another highlight. It didn't seem to matter that the chocolate fondant had split its sides: it was yummy. The sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream was second only to Le Caprice's - the best in town.
All in all, it was a comfortable, relaxing night out, and we were not twittered over too much by the staff.
When you're paying for food that's this easy on the eye and the wallet, you don't mind the noise, the split chocolate fondant, or even a disconnected halogen lamp. But is it too much to ask for a water jug on the table? Another imponderable was why so many female diners were wearing trousers. They didn't all look like businesswomen, but they were certainly into the serious business of eating.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Ben,
Absolutely right. It's like saying "My flight cost £10 but because I don't like the Piccadilly Line I got a £70 taxi to the airport. Total cost £80." Sheer and utter laziness, both of foot and of mind.
The place is easy to find and very accessible - it would take 5 minutes (or less) in a cab from Clapham Junction or Clapham Common stations as slightly more distant alternatives to the stations Ben points out above. Saying that, I live in Clapham and I walk there.
- John, London
To those who say that the price of a cab to Battersea should be taken into account, I have 3 words: "TAKE THE TRAIN". This lovely place is just down the road from both Queenstown Rd and Battersea Park stations. If you're dumb enough to decide to get a cab from W1 then you deserve to pay extra whack. Tickets from Waterloo or Victoria are available for about £3. And if you didn't know where it was I have another word: "MAP".
- Ben, London
I went a couple of weeks ago with a friend. The food was good. But as we were uncertain where it was took a cab. As Battersea power station looked into view the cab's meter clicked over to £20 So value for money the set lunch may be true but add £45 round trip if your starting point is W1
- Graeme L-W, Switzerland
