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Andrew Gilligan's rating
Reader rating
Description: The "sympathetic renovation" of this ancient Greenwich tavern -- with its "well-executed" French cuisine and "beautiful" decor -- has been a big hit with most reporters; a few critics, though, find it "frigid" and "pretentious".
Food: 
Service:
Ambience:
Phone: 020 8853 2333
Website: http://www.spreadeaglerestaurant.com
Open: Open daily, noon-3pm and 6pm-11pm
Good for: Romantic meals, Good food, Ambience.
Payment options:
Good news, bad news: the sea paintings are a delight but the splendid cubicles have all been ripped out
Tourism is the peacetime equivalent of the neutron bomb, leaving the fabric of buildings intact while destroying all intelligent life within them. My own area, “World Heritage” Greenwich, has long suffered from the problem in its shops, and now it has a culinary equivalent.
As well as the usual Pizza Express and Café Rouge, the tightly wedged streets of central Greenwich still hold what looks to a visitor like a large number of independent pubs and restaurants — the Trafalgar Tavern, where Dickens ate white-bait, the Admiral Hardy and the Coach & Horses in the market, the Bar du Musée, the George café-delicatessen, the pub opposite the entrance to the park.
All these, and several more, are in fact part of one of London’s newer culinary phenomena — the stealth chain. Over the past 10 years an American named Frank Dowling has gone on a spending spree in Greenwich. His company, Inc Group, now controls seven of the town centre’s 15 pubs and bars.
None of them is exactly bad. The fabric has usually been more or less preserved, even given a brush-up. But all are somehow dispiriting.
The food is not disastrous, but it is bland. Both it and the staff, in their uniform black shirts, seem inter-changeable between “outlets”.
Not many Greenwich residents I know would spend time in an Inc Group establishment. So when Dowling took over the Spread Eagle, one of our only three decent restaurants, there was a sharp intake of breath. Would the service be down to normal Inc Group standards?
The Spread, an old coaching inn, has a 350-year history; Dan Leno, Houdini and Marie Lloyd used to stay there when performing at the Greenwich Theatre.
The new Spread is a curious mixture of destruction and improvement. In the first room, Dowling has ripped out the splendid cubicles and private snugs enjoyed by generations of diners. But the rear room, once rather dingy, has been extended into the next-door shop and brightened with a marvellous array of sea paintings.
On a sunny Sunday lunchtime, the restaurant was less than half full. Our drink orders were taken, but not brought. Our waiters’ English was not good enough to understand a request for sauté potatoes. The menu was considerably more ambitious than the Inc Group average and so was the execution.
The dishes were of a much higher standard than in any of the other Dowling outlets, but the essential Inc Group DNA was clearly detectable. They were mostly fine, without being in any way exciting. Scallops were over-sauced. Beef was a little better than fine, but surrounded and overwhelmed by unidentifiable puréed vegetables. Portions were small.
One of my companions had the foie gras, which was very good, and the chicken, again suffering from the restaurant’s curious fondness for mystery purées. French apple tart for pudding was excellent, but the whole experience left us underwhelmed — and, given the size of the portions, somewhat underfed. The prices, at £15.95 for two courses, are reasonable.
Before its reincarnation, this was arguably a place in decline. Dowling has halted that. He has spent generously, and to some effect, but something important has still been lost here.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Debbie well done, you should be proud of yourself, you have moved on the art of restaurant review immeasurably. I have to entirely agree with you. May I also add that the Inc Chain is truly a wonderful organization, which has shone a light of culinary genius so brilliant on the possible eating places of Greenwich residents that nothing will ever taste the same again. The Admiral Hardy, The Tiki Lounge etc etc are monuments to the Inc Group's dedication to the culinary delights.
P.S Please carry on taking the tablets
PS The Spread Eagle is over priced while the staff for the most part (especially the eastern Europeans) very pleasant.
- David Walton, London
Hmmm Debbie, that sounds an awful lot like the standard schpiel Mr Dowling himself comes out with every time someone criticises him. Sure you're not related?
Some things Greenwich Inc. do very well (the Trafalgar is one of my favourite pubs, the fish and chips are awesome and Bar du Musee, despite the chaotic service is great) others not so well (Greenwich Park Bar and Grill is dire and in need of a lick of paint and someone to take it by the reins).
Take the criticism and learn from your mistakes rather than trying to shout everyone else down.
- Doogie, London
I wish to praise Frank Dowling and the Inc Group for breathing life back into Greenwich, for creating jobs and for providing Greenwich with a place that locals and tourists alike can relax in establishments that offer great service and food. I have eaten in the Spread Eagle on a number of occasions, both before the renovation and after both for family occasions and for business entertaining and I have never been disappointed. Mr Gilligan does not speak for other Greenwich residents who greatly appreciate the work that has been put into making the Spread Eagle great again. I have also eaten in the other establishments of the Inc Group and do not agree that they are part of a Stealth Chain - they are very different in feel and character - I think Mr Gilligan needs to understand how other residents feel and not write critiques that could damage a Companies reputation and throw Greenwich back into the dark ages of cuisine.
- Debbie Smith, Greenwich, London
