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David Sexton's rating
Hard to swallow at the Chicago Rib Shack
By
David Sexton
21 May 2008
Should auld acquaintance be forgot and never brought to mind? Sometimes, for sure. Sometimes, it’s the kindest thing to do. Bob Payton launched the Chicago Rib Shack back in the Eighties, when American food still seemed fun and even exotic (his other restaurants included the Chicago Pizza Pie Factory, flogging deep pan enormities, and Henry J Beans’s Bar and Grill — a fishy venture called Payton Plaice didn’t work out.)
Payton sold the Shack (then where Zuma is now) to Capital Radio and it finally closed in 1999, its glory days well behind it. (Payton himself died in a car accident in Stevenage in 1994, aged 50). Now, surprisingly, the Chicago Rib Shack is back, supposedly by popular demand. “Thanks to the efforts of thousands of devoted customers, the campaign to ‘Bring Back the Shack’ has been successful,” the menu claims.
The site that’s been chosen is one of the restaurant trade’s Bermuda triangles, despite its apparently prime location. Both a Brazilian restaurant (Mocoto) and a swish Italian (Isola) have perished in these oversized rooms, on both ground and basement floors. It’s hard to imagine what would ever work here. A Wagamama perhaps? Or maybe the building should just be office space.
The Rib Shack tries hard to be cute, with pig art everywhere and plastic “Bone Appetite” bibs offered and, amazingly, donned by some troughers. The service, too, is cheery to the point of desperation.
Then the food comes, “carefully prepared using the original 25-year-old recipes”. If what’s on the plates is indeed authentic, then it’s quite an insight into what people not so long ago used to want. Because it’s astoundingly gross.
“Stuffed potato skins” (£3.95 for two, £6.95 for a suicidal four) were lukewarm crisped-up halves, looking almost like little tarts, filled with sour cream, then topped with stringy melted cheese and optional bacon bits. You could possibly find this confection hoggishly yummy, if you have never in your whole life been able to get enough fat and carbs together at one time.
A Caesar salad (£4.75) came with two big and briney anchovies draped over the top, flakes of Grana Padano rather than Parmesan, and croutons that had surely been long pre-prepared. These days, you can get a better Caesar salad from M&S.
A “Hand-pressed 100% Organic English Beef Burger” (£10.50) ordered rare came more or less raw. Despite the claim that the meat comes from “animals contentedly living on free range farms in the English countryside” (living no longer, eh?), this mince was peculiarly tasteless and disagreeably greasy in texture. The chips on the side were pointless too, pale and not crisp.
The Combination Platter (£18.95) was a cardiac event on a plate. Mounded up, mixed all together, you get a quarter of barbecued chicken, a half rack of “baby back” ribs, smoked brisket and pulled pork. All this meat is so smoky as to make you start worrying about when, were you to survive the fats, the carcinogens would kick in. It’s all brown, it’s all overcooked, it’s all sticky and it leaves a burnt taste in the mouth.
Sauté potatoes were greasy too; a little tub of coleslaw had been lubricated with nasty oil. But the half head of sweetcorn was the killer. It had been boiled to tastelessness — and then could it really have been further deep fried? The coating it left on the mouth suggested so.
We ventured one pudding, “Crispy Chocolate Sundae”, with ice cream, brownies, hot sauce and liberal layers of aerated cream, all tasting alarmingly industrial.
What would the total calorie count each have been, had we eaten everything we were brought? Enough for several days, perhaps. Maybe for several people for several days. As it was, we left quite hungry.
Would even children like this food today? (There’s a children’s menu, for three to seven-year-olds, at £7.95). Perhaps.
And then some people like cocktails, don’t they? The wine list is determinedly New World. We tried Delicato, White Zinfandel (£5.30 a glass), which achieved the unusual combination of being sweet and yet thin and astringent, and a Brazilian red, Oveja Negra Touriga/Tempranillo (£4.85), which, for stewed tarriness, made all the other hot climate wines I’ve ever tried look like pussycats. Tap water was brought liberally, though, and was the best thing.
You can eat well in all kinds of ways all over London now. It wasn’t so long ago that that wasn’t the case. In a Back to the Future kind of way, it’s interesting to know that the Chicago Rib Shack could ever have seemed a hot ticket. Just don’t swallow.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (22)
If you like tasty, exciting food then stay away. We had heard good things about the Rib Shack but were very disappointed. Very little of the food had any taste at all. The ribs were meaty but bland, the chicken was dry and bland, the corn on the cob was just bland. Add sweet, watery coleslaw and a side order of taste-free macaroni cheese and it was all really disappointing. And at £30 a head for 2 courses without wine it is not even cheap and bland.
Very disappointing.
- Neil, London, 21/02/2010 06:30
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I'm French, so needless to say i like complaining.
I had the best burger ever at that place, 4 days ago. KISS burger with extra burger. the monster was over 20cm tall (really), chips were great. It was just awesome. The sauce was great, bacon, and the sauce was really special and great.
My buddy got the ribs, full rack. He was super happy about it.
They have some dishes that look like shit, like a big brick of fried whatever. Maybe we got lucky. But I really liked the place. A bit touristic of course, but who cares? burger was great!
- Stan, London, 26/08/2009 11:00
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Went there last week 8/09, fan of the old place and hoping for a reprise.
First course, one quarter of iceberg lettuce with good blue cheese dressing, surprising very good,
Ribs for both us, very poor, had baby rack and st Louis ribs respectively- very disappointing, barbecue sauce was foul,
Onion loaf- the thing we most remembered from the old place was swimming in oil and my last bite was a chunk of quartz in the disk, showed the manager who deducted that off the bill, lucky I did not lose a filling.
What a disappointment- nostalgia ain’t what it used to be, try the chilli ribs in harvesters or go to Tony Roma’s in the states, this was very poor.
- Roger, cardiff, wales, 05/08/2009 14:45
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Went to the Shack almost a year ago in the opening week of the re-launch and was quite disappointed - chicken was dry, ribs were nothing special. The sides weren't bad - but not as good as they were at the original restaurant.
As we were in the area yesterday we thought we'd give it another chance - what a mistake!!
Ribs and pork were awful; the sides were a poor excuse for what they should have been – especially the other bits, which were like the equivalent of frozen oven chips - baked cubes of potato - what's that all about?!!!
Just as I was thinking it, my boyfriend said to me 'it's like being at an overpriced TGI Fridays, but worse' - talk about taking the words out my mouth.
The only good thing was the glasses they served the beer in.
Total waste of money - will definitely not be going back.
- Anon, London, UK, 10/03/2009 09:32
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I went down there for my birthday a little worried about the reviews. I was a big fan of the original place around the corner. I came away feeling like critics had unfairly judged the place, more than likely comparing the old and the new and not the new for what it was.
I ordered the ribs which came as expected, tender and delicious, the coleslaw was not as good as the old days but still coleslaw is coleslaw.
The staff and the management really made the effort to make sure that we all had a god time and all the finishing touches like the balloons on the table and the party poppers etc were a welcome surprise as we had not asked for them and were not charged.
My advice would be to ignore the reviews and judge for yourself o dont have an opinion, in this time when businesses (like mine) are struggling its nice to see a fledgling restaurant doing its best to keep up the ante and delivering a good time.
Keep going guys
- D Gough, London UK, 07/01/2009 21:14
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Myself and my friends and family always have a great time at rib shack! The atmosphere is perfectly fun, the service wonderfully delightful and the food...well the food is bloody marvellous! A meat eater's dream come true! I don't really get the negative reviews. What more can you ask for from a rib 'shack'? No, it isn't fine dining, but it isn't trying to be! It's just good, honest, American style food that is comforting and a joy to get stuck into! The bibs mean you can get really stuck in and when you whip it off are you perfectly groomed for a night in a classy bar! In my view it's a winner. Great food, no fuss, a pure feasting indulgence.
- Ollie, London, 08/08/2008 17:09
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A night at The Rib Shack and a dance at the Welly - what more could I ask for in Knightsbridge.
- Jonathan, Knightsbridge, 08/08/2008 13:46
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Leaves you feeling confused, sickly and robbed.
For the price we paid, this was not the best possible food, service or venue. A restaurant should either go cheap and fun or expensive and high quality, this is just a clever way of serving up retail park food to nostalgic tourists who haven't yet worked out the exchange rate. I'm sure it will survive due to the location and passing trade, I only hope it doesn't start a trend.
- Michael Schimell, London, 29/07/2008 08:45
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What is Dave talking about!
Myself and my 30 guests thoroughly enjoyed our Saturday evening at The Rib Shack. Our party were spread over two private dining booths, both with our own volume controls, light controls and two very special lights - one for 'leave us alone' and one for 'please sir could I have some more!'...
The service was second to none, food was tip top and just as I remembered from my youth and the complimentary 'pink mojito' to help with the birthday celebrations was great!
All in all great service, delicious food, music to sing along to with some awesome American theme tunes and all 31 of us left happy as punch.
Dave Sexton - seriously get off the soap box and leave The Shack to get on with being great!
- Andrew Duncan, London, 28/07/2008 11:54
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I loved it, great atmosphere great food and great beer.
- Sami Khan, Saddlers House, 23/07/2008 15:51
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What is Dave Sexton talking about. Who wants to pander to your no flavour, no imagination style of eating. Certainly not me. If you wanted carrots and leeks on granary bread, you was given the wrong direction. The name Chicago Rib shak should have given some sort of a clue as to the food being served. The Rib Shak? excellent as long as the beef and lamb ribs are on the menu.
- Nina Hess, London, 16/07/2008 21:35
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Fantastic ribs, as good as I remember and well priced. Onion loaf was amazing ...
One question: Who goes to a place that specialises in meat produces and orders a salad ?
(seems a bit like going to a Thai restaurant and complaining that they don't do good 'English' food)
- Rich, London, 29/06/2008 21:18
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Jeez – as an American ex-pat living out here you guys don’t know when you’ve got it good!
Ice cold beer, well priced cocktails, great tunes and in my opinion the best ribs in London.
I’ve been back about once a week for a few weeks and been in and out in just over an hour for a rack and an onion loaf. My English buddies remember the original and say it is a pretty good version for 2008.
Nice design and really good spicy wings…Defo go back
My advice is don’t go on a Saturday as it is too busy and the table wait too long - Thursday or a Sunday for me!
- Louise, london, 25/06/2008 13:07
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Used to go there all the time and couldn't wait to go to the reborn shack.
Brought family up from south coast and had a ball, kids loved it and the art competition is such a great idea.
My view for what its worth is that these critics have visited intent on not liking american food - sod them I love it
- Andy, whitstable, 25/06/2008 12:52
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Great ribs and chicken, excellent sauce.
Fantastic air conditioning.
- Tina, Barnehurst Kent UK, 19/06/2008 14:00
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Oh calm down David, its only a Rib Restaurant!!
The Rib Shack was an institution in London in the 1990s, it had a devoted band of followers, and when it closed down it left a huge void - since it became impossible to get a decent rack of ribs in the city accompanied by a cholesterol inducing deep fried onion loaf.
You are clearly in the minority since whenever I have been into the rib shack since it re-opened it has been totally mobbed with people - all stuffing their gobs full of ribs with their bibs tied on tight, and big smile on their bbq sauce covered faces....
Maybe when David gets off his high horse, gets over the <gasp> new world wine list and takes the rib shack for what it is, he might actually enjoy himself there - like the rest of us!
- Lg, London, UK, 30/05/2008 14:00
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Seems to be a media witch hunt against this place. The Meto had it on their fornt page today and gave it a full page spread inside, very nasty! Seems excessive for a Restaurant review. Has the shack upset anyone? Who cares I love Ribs and this is the palce to go.
- Paul, London UK, 28/05/2008 11:41
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Yes, I think Dave is missing the point of barbeque.
Gross?
Be it Memphis style, Kansas City style, or Chicago style, it is supposed to be smokey, a little charred (it is after all slow cooked for hours) and messy (plenty of napkins and wet-naps required). The rub or sauce makes it or brakes it. It is supposed to be fun to eat. Back ribs, brisket, chicken, pulled..... all good stuff. My mouth is watering now. Time to get some Ribs from Carson's
As for the potato skins, They are supposed to be that way. Cheese, sour cream, bacon (maybe a few chives). This is cardiac alert food - enjoy it.
Lighten up Dave, your review reads like Basil Fawlty had written it
- Tom Mclaughlin, Chicago, IL, USA, 27/05/2008 22:57
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Really couldn’t understand where this guy is coming from with this review. I’m really fussy and have eaten in some of the best restaurants all over the world, but if it’s well cooked American food you hanker after then this is definitely the place to go. My husband and I went to the Rib Shack on May 2nd. Years ago we loved it and we couldn’t wait to return. We weren’t disappointed, it was great and exactly how we remembered it. We started with potato skins which were really good. We each had a rack of ribs which were, and still are, the best ribs I’ve ever eaten. These came with amazing coleslaw, other bits (potatoes) which were actually a bit too spicy and corn on the cob. The pièce de résistance was the famous onion loaf, which is absolutely massive, so much so that we asked for a doggy bag so we could take it home. All in all we had a great evening, the atmosphere was great, and the new venue is perfect. We’re so glad the Shack is back
- Elaine Huntley, Beckenham, Kent - UK, 27/05/2008 19:11
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Back again and better.
Don't understand the review.
Great ribs and very charming service.
We locals are lucky to have such a venue with reasonable prices and which in these dark days is such fun.
- P E L, Knightsbridge, London, UK, 27/05/2008 15:07
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To harp on about the calorific content of the food is surely missing the point of a good old-fashioned all American feast?
Although I wasn’t fortunate enough to visit first time round, I was given glowing reports by friends who lived in London back when and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. Even on a Tuesday the restaurant was buzzing. We chose to have drinks at the bar first and were shown to our table after 20 minutes.
My boyfriend and I shared some chicken wings to start, which were just the right combination of sweet and spicy. This was followed by a good quality fillet steak for me and a rack of baby back ribs for him. The steak was perhaps less rare than I would have liked but otherwise tender and well-seasoned. The ribs were juicy, tasty and suitably messy, scoring ten out of ten from both of us! Although he didn’t manage all of his full rack, our friendly waitress quickly informed us that a doggy bag was available. What a great concept – other restaurants should take note!
By this time, we were getting full, but still managed to squeeze in a portion of the famous Mississippi Mud Pie between us. This was gorgeously sickly and suited our sweet teeth down to a tee, but may not be such a good choice for the faint of heart!
Overall, we had a thoroughly enjoyable meal. The portions were generous, the food delicious and the atmosphere.
- Leila Guy, London, UK, 23/05/2008 10:59
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I went to the opening of the relaunched Chicago Rib Shack a few weeks ago and it was the most bizarre, awful experience ever.
Next to the embarrassing mix of Z-list celebrities (including Nikki from Big Brother and Sophie Anderton), nervously sweaty magicians and Heston Blumenthal (what the hell was he doing there?), the food won hands down for its vileness.
Each and every piece of meat they served, including a skewer of salmon, was soaked in a bbq sauce that tasted as though it took a bunch of nerdy scientists a month to create in their lab (maybe that’s the Heston connection?). The ribs were simply gross, the burgers greasy and soggy, the chips tasted like they’d been waiting in a freezer since the day the previous Rib Shack closed its doors, and the Caesar salad was covered in water (ever heard of a colander?).
Bizarrely the place seems to be booked up until the end of June. I’d be surprised if July will be quite as busy.
- Meike, London, 22/05/2008 11:51
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