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Restaurant reviews London,

Quo Vadis

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Cuisine: Italian
Average price for a meal for two: Lunch/Dinner £35-40

Service Charge: 12.5

26-29 Dean Street, W1 6LL

Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road Transport for London

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Description: **STOP PRESS** Note (February 2008): The restuarant has been bought by the Hart brothers, and will re-open in the spring as an establishment modelled on the hotel grill rooms of old. **STOP PRESS** The Soho veteran is set to re-open in late-spring 2008, under the ownership of the Hart brothers of Fino (etc) fame; the style being aimed at is the sort of old-fashioned hotel grill which even hotels don't do any more!


Food: Food rating   Service: Service rating   Ambience: Ambience rating  

Phone: 020 7437 9585
Website: http://www.whitestarline.org.uk

Open: Lunch Mon-Fri 12.00-14.30 (closed Sat-Sun). Dinner Mon-Sat 18.00-23.30; Closed all day Sunday.

Dress code: Suits, unless you are Damien Hirst in which case you wear what you like

Good for: Business, Good food, Ambience.

Payment options: All major cards

 
 
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Quo's too quiet, but tastes terrific

Larushka Ivan-Zadeh, London Lite 18.06.08
 
Quo Vadis

Nice try: the food is great, but Quo Vadis lacks character

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In the Nineties this Marco Pierre White joint was the epitome of Soho cool. A joint venture with Damien Hirst, who filled it with his unappetising YBA art, its stark interior was closer to a mad scientist's lab than relaxing dining room. No more.

It has been taken over by Sam and Eddie Hart, the brothers who have made a roaring success of Fino and Barrafina.

Refurbished in tan leather, the blandly smart interior now feels like stepping into a reassuringly expensive car. Staff exude an executive-soothing hush - it's the calmest (re)opening night I've ever been to.

In an attempt to get the party started I go for a Quo Vadis aperitivo (£6), a cava cocktail with Campari and clementine - delicious. All set, we considered the menu. Whitebait £6.20; rump £16: dishes aren't lingeringly described as much as bullet-pointed. Still, my brown shrimp on toast (£7) was a beauty worth lingering over, and the date's home smoked salmon (£7.60) came prettily circled with diced egg and onion.

For mains I had grilled Dover sole (£21.50), which meant an embarrassing pause as a waiter theatrically de-boned it in front of us. Still, this was sole perfection: flavoursome and delicate. The date got a lobster so huge it was a bargain at £25.

We loved the attention to detail: napkins embroidered with QV and still and sparkling filtered water. Yet even as I devoured a succulent £6.50 summer pudding I couldn't love Quo Vadis.

It means "Where are you going?" in Latin. If you're looking for somewhere with character, I'd "Vadis" elsewhere.

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